AS I sit here watching yet another sudden downpour lash the windows in typical 'Irish summer' fashion, what I wouldn't give to be back in Rhodes.
If only I could be lounging on the balcony at the five-star Gennadi Grand Resort, gazing out at the soothing, deep blue vista of the Mediterranean as it shimmers in the blazing sunshine of another perfect 20-something Celsius day, waves lapping at the resort's private beach a mere five minute stroll away as I contemplate a refreshing late afternoon dip followed by yet another fabulous meal at one of the hotel's top quality restaurants.
As idyllic as that sounds, chilling out at the luxurious Gennadi Grand wasn't even my favourite bit of the recent long weekend I spent in Rhodes courtesy of EasyJet and EasyJet Holidays, who are now running twice-weekly flights from Belfast International to this historic relaxation destination.
That accolade goes to a happy afternoon spent learning how to prepare classic Greek meze dishes at a taverna in the village of Apollona, perched high up on the verdant mountainside of Profitis Illias, just half-an-hour from the Aegean coast to the west and only a 10-minute drive from the ruins of Mussolini's old summer house.
Yes, like the Romans, the Byzantines, the Knights of St John and the Ottoman Empire before them, the Italians once laid claim to Rhodes: they ruled from 1912 until Il Duce paid the price for letting his Nazi chums in during the Second World War – Rhodes was belatedly reunited with Greece in 1947.
MEZE ON THE MENU
WITH a population of around 1,000, Apollona is pretty sleepy, apart from the coach-loads of tourists who flock daily to Taverna Yiarenis to enjoy its authentic Greek cuisine. As a man who would happily eat a Greek salad with every meal, I was looking forward to visiting this place – and it did not disappoint.
Myself and a group of fellow Irish journos enjoyed a fun Greek cookery lesson with jovial proprietor Christos and his friendly staff, learning how to create divine dolmades, feta cheese pies to die for, tasty tzatziki and other traditional dishes.Read more:Luxury and adventure are closer than you may think on the Greek island of RhodesEasyJet to launch new winter flights to Egypt from Belfast International AirportOnce our grub was more-or-less successfully assembled, we decamped to the family-owned Piperis Panagotis Winery next door for a spot of wine-tasting while our creations went into the taverna's oven to be cooked for our lunch.
Mr Piperis and his two teenage children were on hand to explain the wines they've been proudly producing on their 40-hectare enterprise for nearly 10 years now. The reputation of Greek wine is on the rise, and nearly every one of their tipples tasted incredible. As a result, we left laden with carry-out purchases, including pots of the delicious pine and fir needle infused honey the family also produce.
Half-cut, clinking and hungry, it was back to the taverna to sample the fruits of our culinary labour. The lunch-time rush was now in full swing, the previously empty restaurant now bustling with tourists excitedly perusing the mouth-watering Taverna Yiarenis menu, their appetites whetted by incredible cooking smells emanating from the kitchen.
It was a pleasurably lively and convivial atmosphere, with plenty of plate-sharing as is the Greek way. Happily, all of my lovingly prepared Greek dishes were devoured without complaint (including the comically malformed cheese pies) and even our hard-to-impress Hungarian tour guide, Sara, declared my tzatziki to be "very good".
HISTORIC ISLE
HISTORY is all around you on Rhodes. Yes, you could just hang out by the pool at the Gennadi Grand Resort all day and limit your 'touring' to just the occasional trip to the eco hotel's private beach, its luxurious spa and eight different restaurants serving locally-sourced food – from pool bar grub at Ble to fine dining at Edesma, my favourite being Ouzo with its contemporary spin on traditional Greek cuisine and relaxing views of the Mediterranean.
However, you'd be missing out on so much.For example, the ancient acropolis above the historic seaside town of Lindos is a must-see attraction. Just a 20-minute drive up the coast from Gennadi, these ancient ruins date back to the 9th century, making them even older than the more famous acropolis in Athens. As the main archaeological site on the island, they are in a perpetual state of ongoing restoration.History aside, though, it's worth a visit just to enjoy the spectacular panoramic views on offer: the 2,000 seat amphitheatre just next door, and Lindos town and the sea 380ft below.
Reaching the acropolis involves negotiating the town's labyrinthine network of narrow, winding streets lined with whitewashed tourist shops and eateries, then climbing 300 steps to the main entrance.It's dusty, sweaty going even for the physically able, so be sure to bring a bottle of water and make a few rest stops en route in order to savour the view and catch your breath – or, just pay €8 and let a donkey take you up instead.
Once you've handed over €12 to venture within the fortified walls, you'll wander among a cornucopia of crumbling columns, steps to nowhere and vacant plinths in what remains of the Temple of Athena Lindia, a sanctuary dedicated to the goddess Athena, where folks like Alexander The Great once offered up sacrifices.Informative plaques at various spots around the acropolis can fill you in on its storied history and the ongoing restoration work, but you'll likely be too busy just enjoying those views.
Another choice vantage point in Lindos is the terrace at Lindos Grand Resort, sister hotel to the Gennadi Grand, where you can sip a restorative cocktail by the infinity pool while drinking in the stunning view of Vlycha Bay below (the hotel's sushi restaurant, Yume Mou, is also incredible).
Those in need of post-acropolis visit grub should grab a table at Nefeli on nearby Lindos Beach and enjoy superb traditional Greek fare by the sea.
COLOSSAL SIGHTS
THOSE who haven't had their fill of history yet should head to Rhodes old town at the north-eastern tip of the island, a medieval settlement which was granted Unesco World Heritage Site status in 1988.
Once home to both the aforementioned Knights of St John and one of the original Seven Wonders of The World – the giant 110-feet-tall Colossus of Rhodes, which stood near Mandraki Harbour – it's still a living, working city today where only residents are allowed to drive within its Unesco-protected walls.
The exact spot where the Colossus once stood is still the subject of fierce debate – popular myth suggests it straddled the entrance to the harbour – but you can tour the Knights' former HQ at the Grand Master's Palace (another of Mussolini's former holiday homes) and find the noblemen's former residences along either side of the wide cobbles on the Street of The Knights, which runs east to west from the Palace to the gate at the town harbour, where giant cruise ships now pull into port.
Invest in a guided tour and soak up as much detail as you can handle, or just go for a leisurely wander – both approaches will be equally rewarding.
TAKE ME BACK
This was my second time in Rhodes and I fully intend to avail of EasyJet's new Belfast International service again for my inevitable third trip – whenever that may be.
Until then, I'll just have to make do with the thoroughly pleasant memories of my most recent visit, and maybe whip up the odd meze feast to go with them.
HOW TO GET THERE
- EasyJet flies from Belfast International to Rhodes on Tuesdays and Saturdays throughout the summer, with prices starting from £44.99 per person (one-way, including taxes and based on two people on the same booking). Flight time is four hours.
- EasyJet holidays offers seven nights at the five-star Gennadi Grand Resort on a Bed & Breakfast basis for £782 per person including 23kg of luggage per person, transfers and flights from Belfast International on September 30 2023. Book online at easyjet.com/en/holidays or by phone on 0330 365 5005.
- Tours and excursions can be booked with musement.com
- Tourist Board information at visitgreece.gr
