Life

Recipes: Dame Prue Leith talks ageism and cultural appropriation

TV and cooking legend Prue Leith chats to Lauren Taylor as she publishes her latest cookbook, Bliss On Toast...

Prue Leith has a new book out, Bliss On Toast
By Lauren Taylor, PA

DAME Prue Leith may be TV royalty now, but these days of course, South African-born Leith is in her sixth series of Channel Four's Great British Bake Off – “the best job in the world” – alongside Paul Hollywood, Matt Lucas and Noel Fielding, and has just published her latest cookbook, Bliss On Toast.

But the controversy garnered by some of the Bake Off episodes centring on cuisines of other countries, like the recent ‘Mexico week', has taken her by surprise.

“What we're trying to do is celebrate other people's cuisines, but we've only got three challenges, so obviously we're not going to cover all the things that any country would want you to cover,” she says.

Describing the popular baking show as “tolerant, inclusive, encouraging and kind”, Leith adds: “I'm just sorry anyone was offended, because that's not in the spirit of Bake Off.

“It does make you think, if [we cook] any foreign food and it's not regarded as as a sign of appreciation and celebration, and imitation being flattery, then we're in trouble, because British cooking has always been about taking other countries' ideas.”

“Curry is supposed to be the most popular dish in Britain, it didn't originate here. Most of our cooking techniques are French. Our supermarkets are packed with foreign ingredients. It would be the death of British cooking if we couldn't help ourselves to other countries' food.”

On a lighter note, the funniest part of being on the show, she says, is that she never understands the innuendos. “I'm just too old and my companions are like 15-year-old school children. They go into hysterics of laughter – you say the word sausage and they think it's rude and I start like looking like a complete nana because I didn't get the joke.”

It was a surprise to Leith – who married her second husband, retired fashion designer John Playfair, in 2006 – to even be considered for the job replacing Mary Berry back in 2017. “I thought, going to Channel Four, they'd want to change everything, but guess what? They found another old lady.”

She'd just finished 11 years as a judge on BBC Two's Great British Menu and at 75 thought perhaps it was time to retire, but she couldn't resist. Representation of older women on TV is improving, she agrees: “The ageism message must have got through.”

When it comes to food though, nothing quite encapsulates it like a good old plate of toast.

For Leith, Sunday night is the best time to enjoy it. “We've always had something on a Sunday night because Sunday night is like going back to school, isn't it? You need comfort because you're facing the week. So we've always had scrambled eggs and crisp bacon on Sunday nights, or mushrooms on toast, always something on toast – it's comforting.

“If you're feeling ill and you can't eat anything, you can always eat a piece of dry toast,” she adds.

“And then you get a bit better and you want some butter on it. The next morning it's got marmalade on it.”

During lockdown, she'd find leftovers of her big chicken casseroles ended up on toast. “I began to realise that everything tastes better on toast.” So, in the book, readers can expect the likes of figs, blue cheese, thyme and honey on bloomer, Japanese chicken with katsu curry sauce on white toast and peppered steak and sala verde on sourdough.

Crucially, many are cheap to make. “We're all very busy and we're all worried about money and worried about time. Assembling something on toast is easy, stress-free and doesn't have to be expensive,” Leith says. Her favourite – scallop Caesar on fried bread – is a little more special though.

“I never thought salad on top of bread would be good, but it is. For lunch, it's just delightful. When you think of Caesar salad, it usually has croutons in it, so instead of having a fried croutons, I put a big fried piece of bread underneath.”

Many home-cooks won't necessarily need a recipe for some of the combinations, and unlike baking, there's no science to making great toast. “When I usually write cookbooks, I say to the readers, ‘Just trust the cookery writer and do exactly what it says'. Because many cooks make the mistake of thinking, ‘Oh well, if one tablespoon of sherry is good, three will be three times better'. But with this book, it's more about ideas.”

After all, bread is having a moment. “The book opened my eyes to how many artisan bakeries there are now, and how even in supermarkets there's a mass of different, really good breads,” she says.

“I don't really expect the reader to have 20 different breads, but I do think it would be good if it encouraged them to buy ciabatta one week, focaccia the next week, a seeded brown…”

And in her early 80s, Leith isn't slowing down. She's currently on one-woman tour around the US (coming to the UK next year), sharing her experiences. “People think of me as the woman on telly who eats cake for a living, which is true, but I've had a very adventurous life,” she says. When she opened her first restaurant, Leith's, in 1969, she “was a woman doing stuff that was usually done by men” – earning a Michelin star in the process.

“People often say to me, ‘You're amazing for 82', and the truth is, I'm quite healthy, I eat well, I sleep well, I have quite a lot of energy. I think I'm just lucky,” says Leith.

And she'll never tire of being called a a fashion icon, thanks to her colourful wardrobe and signature spectacles. “I love it,” she says, laughing. “I've always been a bit vain and very egotistical. ”

Bliss On Toast by Prue Leith is published by Bloomsbury, priced £14.99, photography by Haarala Hamilton. Available now. For tickets and venue info for Prue Leith's ‘Nothing In Moderation' UK tour (February 1 – April 6 2023), visit MickPerrin.com. Below are two recipes for you to try at home...

CHICKEN TIKKA WITH YOGHURT ON NAAN

100ml plain yogurt

Juice of ½ lemon

1tbsp tikka paste

4 raw skinless and boneless chicken thighs

Oil for the tray

2 small naans, or chapatis

Butter for spreading

½ mild red chilli, finely chopped

A few mint or coriander leaves (or both)

Sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper

Method

Preheat the oven to 240°C/fan 220°C/Gas Mark 9. Mix the yogurt, lemon juice and tikka paste together and reserve half of it for later. Turn the chicken thighs in the rest and spread them out on an oiled baking tray. Roast for about 35 minutes until brown and cooked through (a skewer should glide through the flesh easily). Slice each thigh into three. Warm the naans or chapatis briefly in the microwave or toaster and spread with butter. Pile the chicken on to the breads, seasoning with a little salt and pepper. Top with a dollop of the reserved yogurt, the chilli and herbs.

TOMATOES WITH ENGLISH PESTO ON TOASTED FOCACCIA

2 squares of focaccia

4–6 big slices of ripe tomato

For the pesto:

20g walnuts

30g bunch of parsley

1 garlic clove, crushed

30g Cheddar cheese, finely grated

75ml rapeseed oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method

Preheat the oven to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas Mark 6. Put the walnuts on a baking tray and into the hot oven for five minutes to toast. Or toast them in the microwave for five minutes, giving them a stir halfway through. Chop the stalks of the parsley, which have a lot of flavour you don't want to waste, with a sharp knife. (Chopping in the machine can result in stringy bits – better to start by hand.) Put them, the parsley leaves and garlic into a blender and chop briefly. Then add the Cheddar and walnuts and blend again. At this point, you will need to add the oil to loosen the paste. When everything is in, blitz to a smooth-ish sauce and season with salt and pepper.

4. Toast or grill the focaccia pieces to warm them through, then spread with the pesto and overlap the tomato slices on top.

Tip: The pesto will keep for a couple of weeks in the fridge if stored in a jar with a little more oil on top to keep the air out. But it will lose its brilliant colour, sadly. To make it vegan, use vegan Cheddar or any other hard vegan cheese.

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