ALTHOUGH beer produced in independent brewers still makes up a tiny fractions of all beer sales in Ireland, many publicans still appear reluctant to promote it with any kind of enthusiastic vigour.
However, a growing number of pubs are offering craft beer, whether it be bottled or draught (although the latter is still in woefully short supply outside Belfast).
The hotel industry is still lagging well behind when it comes to sating the needs of the discerning beer drinker. There are a few exceptions: the Canal Court in Newry is a good supporter of local beer, with brews from Mourne Mountains and Whitewater on tap.
On a recent trip to Farnham Estate in Cavan I was pleased to discover they stocked not only craft beers, but also a few I hadn’t come across before from the St Mel’s Brewing Company, which is based in Longford.
I sampled three of their beers amid the relaxing surroundings of Farnham Estate.
First up was their Pale Ale. It gets hopped three times in the kettle before a dry hopping and that certainly contributes to a fragrant aroma and nice floral and fruity flavour.
This is a nicely-balanced ale, sweet malt combining with citrus flavours before a nice piney finish. It’s not overly bitter and, at 4.8 per cent, it’s a nice easy drinking one.
Next up was the Hellas Lager and this is a style I’ve been coming round to a lot more since my little trip up Kinnegar for this year’s brewing academy.
St Mel's is a 5 per cent German-style lager and is clean and crisp with a dry finish, but there’s a nice, almost honeyed sweetness to it which lifts it above many of the bland mass-produced lagers on offer.
My favourite of the three, though, would have to be the Brown Ale. It’s 5.2 per cent, pours a cracking chestnut colour and has lovely aroma of roasted malt and orange peel.
There’s a nuttiness to the flavour and then a silky hit of chocolate and caramel. There’s a lot more going on here than meets the eye – it’s a complex ale with sweet flavours, but also a bitter finish.
