Where the food is good enough to risk heaven’s wrath - Eating out at Artis by Phelim O’Hagan in Derry

Artis by Phelim O’Hagan,

29-31 Craft Village,

Shipquay Street,

Derry

BT48 6AR

028 7126 1212

artisatcraftvillagederry.com

While no-one could ever accuse me of being devout, I do like to observe certain points in the church calendar. By observe, I don’t mean just saying, ‘Oh, look, there’s Ascension Day’; I do something to actually mark those events.

I always give up something for Lent, for instance. However, while I may not be devout, I am devious. When I give something up, I tend to replace it with something else: salted cashews instead of Tayto, maybe; or lager for Guinness.

This year’s sacrifice makes that trickier, though, as I’ve given up eating after 8pm. And it is a sacrifice, as the 8pm pips are the signal to binge-eat while I binge-watch. Now, that sound is the full-time whistle, so I have to pack in all my bingeing before it sounds.

It was with this in mind that I booked the table for two at Artis for 6pm, figuring a couple of hours would be more than enough until the cut-off point. As it was, I only just made it. Not because of slow service, or even the amount we ordered, but simply because this was a meal that couldn’t be rushed. It was impossible not to savour every mouthful.

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Although it was a table for two that I booked, my wife and I brought our daughter along. This was no problem. Artis doesn’t do a children’s menu, but it is by no means one of those places that resents the presence of children. Our daughter had eaten earlier, but happily tucked into the bread and amuse bouches that were provided, as well as the bowl of ice cream that came free with the other desserts.

I’ve been to Artis just once before, when it first opened. It was good then. It is sensational now. For one thing, the service was impeccable – knowledgeable, concerned, observant but unobtrusive, friendly. And full of good advice: “Have the pork... Try the Hungarian white...”

It was hard not to fill up on the delicious brioche while waiting for our mains, but it was worth the restraint. Both were beautifully presented and tasted amazing.

My pork was firm to the knife and then succulent and juicy, full of a flavour that was expertly enhanced by the sweet cider sauce, the delicate lobster, and the puréed carrot. There was a lovely crunch from the celery and a slight, bitter smokiness from the little cuts of almond.

My wife let me try some of her hake, and then, wisely, guarded her plate from me, knowing I’d want more. The fish couldn’t have been better cooked, the flakes firm but easy. The curry gave a sweet heat, while the ponzu was savoury with an uplifting hint of citrus.

Some comments made while eating: “I can’t remember having a nicer meal... this is a work of art... I’ve not even finished and I’m already desperate to come back...”

The sides were just as good as the main event, with particular praise going to the mack-onnaise. Mayo made with mackerel might not sound enticing, but it was delicious, especially with the charred greens.

The chocolate tart was a real, grown-up pudding – strong, smooth, dark chocolate combining with boozy cherry. It was fantastic, although I wouldn’t have swapped it for my custard tart, silky vanilla sitting on a crisp hazelnut base, with a sharp blackberry sorbet alongside.

It was 7.56pm when I started, so in true Mastermind style, I carried on past eight before I finished. The food was good enough to risk heaven’s wrath, anyway.

Incidentally, the list of suppliers on the menu shows a clear concern for quality and provenance; one of them, Moore on the Quay, just a stone’s throw away, if you have a good arm.

The restaurant is a haven of warmth, light, and deliciousness in an otherwise dark and empty Craft Village. Phelim O’Hagan has received enough laurels to stuff a very comfortable sofa, but it’s clear he’s not resting on them. Artis is simply brilliant.

The bill

Pork loin, glazed cheek, butter-poached lobster, carrot, almond, celery - £33.00

Roast hake, Portavogie scallop, cauliflower, curry, ponzu - £30.00

Crispy potato gratin, Coolatin cheddar, onion x 2 - £11.00

Sweetheart cabbage, “mack-onnaise”, shallot - £4.50

Colcannon - £4.50

Vanilla custard tart, blackberry, apple, hazelnut - £8.50

Layered 70% chocolate tart, amarena cherry, vanilla ice cream - £8.50

Diet Coke - £3.40

Glass Pajzos Tokaji Furmint - £8.50

Total: £111.90