Deanes at Queens,
1 College Gardens,
Belfast,
BT9 6BQ.
028 9038 2111
michaeldeane.co.uk/deanesatqueens
First, a clarification – which is what media folk call a correction when they don’t want to admit they got something, well, incorrect.
Actually, now I think of it, there wasn’t anything incorrect in my review of Flink, the very good smashburger venture launched by the high priest of Belfast restaurateurs, Michael Deane, at the end of last year.
But when I noted that Flink was the latest outpost in an empire that also included MrDeanes and Meat Locker, I left someone out.
So, first, a confession to a sin of omission.
How did I manage to forget Deanes at Queens? It’s been there in south Belfast, over the road from the eponymous university and right across from Methodist College, thumbing its nose at both seats of learning with its lack of apostrophes, for 20 years.
Maybe that’s why it slipped my mind. Deanes at Queens has sat there getting on with being quietly excellent for a long time. It’s been a while since my last visit but there’s something immediately comforting and familiar about the city-smart but unpretentious dining room, as well as the efficient, friendly, relaxed service that’s always been a hallmark of Deane’s establishments.
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There’s reassuring continuity too in seeing former Great British Menu winner Chris Fearon – who started as head chef here in 2008 and is now executive head chef in the Deanes group – still at the pass, still adding the occasional burst of song from the kitchen, still overseeing as reliably good a meal as you’ll find anywhere in the city.
There are some dishes whose mere presence on a menu absolutely guarantees I will be ordering them. One of those has been a favourite of Deane’s various restaurants through the years, even if it barely qualifies as a dish.
Read More: mrDeanes review: Another star offering from Michael Deane
The shimmering silver of deep-fried whitebait, peeking out through the whisper of breading, served here with a rich aioli, is perhaps the perfect snack. I could mindlessly munch away on these little fish long past the point of portion, or indeed self, control.
Hot enough from the fryer to the table that they require a second of caution before each bite, even after being dredged through that cold, garlicky mayonnaise, it’s clear we are here for a truly good time.
The robust, umami-laden bowl of winter roast vegetable soup is something to get lost in, with the deep savouriness set off and enhanced by aged cheddar and smoked bacon.
Things are more daintily presented across the table but are no less satisfying. The classic combination of sweet scallop and pungent black pudding comes with smooth blobs of celeriac and cubes of apple. It’s as modern bistro classic as it gets and the solid, crowd-pleasing but utterly unimpeachable quality of Deanes at Queens shines through in the main courses too.
Wedges of chicken breast are perfectly cooked flesh under crisp skin but it honestly plays second fiddle to what it’s sitting on – an absurdly silky roast cauliflower puree that cradles a pool of earthy puy lentils, studded with smoked pancetta.
We visit on the last night of what feels like a couple of years of rain and, while the chicken, lentils and all provide wintry solace, the salmon across the table hints at the weather about to break.
Read More: ‘I feel like I’m part of Belfast’s bricks and mortar’ - chef Michael Deane
Yes, there’s deep comfort there, especially in the seafood bisque, but there’s a tonne of brightness too in the coral fish and sunshine-golden crab remoulade. It’s another piece of cooking that’s impossible to argue with.
Speaking of which: Two desserts, two ways with chocolate and two plates almost scraped down to the table.
A special of a French chocolate tart is dark and powerful, with the chocolate pastry an honest-to-god marvel.
Tart, fragrant passion fruit is a heady counterpoint, while across the way sharp, perfumed fruit has also been pressed into service in a dessert I had the last time I was here and will have again any time I get the chance.
Raspberry sorbet and sauce help along a smooth oblong of chocolate truffle that’s topped with caramelised hazelnuts and supported by a thick layer of raspberry ruffle. Yes, it’s a good as it sounds, and not the sort of thing you’ll easily forgot. Not this time, anyway.
The bill
- Whitebait £6
- Roast scallops £12.50
- Winter roast vegetable soup £6.50
- Herb chicken, roast cauliflower puree, puy lentils £20
- Grilled salmon fillet, Ardglass crab remoulade £24
- Chocolate truffle, raspberry ruffle £8
- French chocolate tart, passion fruit £7
- French Martini £12.95
- Non-alcoholic Blood Orange Spritz £9.50
Total £106.45