The Dirty Spaniard
7 Waterloo Place,
Derry,
BT48 6BT.
028 7127 1801
eltapasgra.com
I'D be lying if I said I’d been meaning to go to the Dirty Spaniard ever since it opened last July.
I only learned of its existence the other week. That’s what happens when you keep your ear to the ground: you miss everything going on above you.
Funny old name to call a restaurant, isn’t it, The Dirty Spaniard? A touch off-putting, maybe? Not attractive, anyway.
It’s something to do with the Conquistadors, arriving in Mexico in sore need of a wash before wiping out the scrupulously clean native population.
For my money, it doesn’t suit. This restaurant is warm and clean, and beautifully decorated with big, bold leaves in green, blue, and turquoise; more polished Aztec than grubby Iberian.
It sits up the stairs above El Tapas Grá, and diners are greeted by a neon 'Hola Muckers' sign before passing through the curtain and into the restaurant.
Actually, given its size, it’s more a cocktail lounge with dining tables than a restaurant. Intimate? Yes, albeit not in the sense that it’s a romantic venue.
Small, but too stylish to be cosy, and certainly not cramped, although it might well get sultry during the live music sessions. It feels like it could be full of stories.
Special for sure, and there’s a touch of the confidential about it, a bit of a covert operation, seeing as it’s upstairs with closed curtains giving no view out, unlike the full windows downstairs in El Tapas Grá.
Another way it differs from downstairs is the menu. Although it also offers tapas, the Dirty Spaniard’s offerings are more authentically Spanish than the fancy fusion going on at street level.
The three of us got there around 6pm, a little too early to see it in its full glory, but it was still possible to imagine it in full swing.
First thing to say – and I can’t believe I’m saying this – is the portions are too big. The menu recommends five or six dishes between two people, so my wife and I ordered six between us, with my daughter getting the fries and halloumi sticks, and we had to get a doggy bag.
The problem, though, with ordering less is that you’ll miss out on some fantastic food, and the food here is just that – fantastic.
There was such a clever blend of tastes, flavours, and textures. The calamari were perfectly cooked, sweet inside a lovely, crisp coating, with a fresh and crisp slaw and an aioli with just the right amount of lemon sharpness. The slow roasted chicken was tender and full of flavour, smothered in a delicious pepper and onion sauce. The beef, sitting in a rich, deep sauce, just melted in the mouth.
I loved the salted cod fritters – meaty fish in a crisp case, with corn that was sweet with an edge from the toasting, and a lively, smoky taste from the harissa. The burrito was great, too, packed with flavour and goodness, and very filling.
While we couldn’t finish the small plates, we couldn’t leave without trying the cheesecake for dessert. This was absolutely delicious, possibly the nicest cheesecake I’ve ever had, and I’ve done plenty of research. Perfectly baked, rich, deep, creamy, gorgeous, and accompanied by darkly spicy cherries.
I thought the food was simply faultless. The ingredients were great, and the cooking spot on, done with appreciation, understanding, and expertise. And it was well-presented and the service was warm and attentive.
As I say, it’s not necessarily a romantic dinner for two place, although it’s very definitely sophisticated and elegant in an easy-going kind of way. What you need to do is get a few friends together – a birthday, an anniversary, maybe a works do, or just make up an excuse for a catch-up – and book a table or two. Book the whole place. Just don’t leave it long.
Prices for three
Small plates
Patatas fritas - £4.00
Halloumi fries, margarita sour cream - £7.00
Chimichangas, fried burrito, pinto beans, Mexican cheese, salsa, guacamole, sour cream - £9.00
El estofado, Rioja-braised beef stew, root vegetables, potatoes, charred bread - £12.00
La col frita, crispy kale, salted and sweet - £4.00
Calameres, slaw, lemon aioli - £8.00
Bunuelos de bacalao, cod fritters, toasted corn, harissa dip - £9.00
Pollo sofrito, peppers, onion, tomatoes, rice, beans - £10.00
Dessert
Basque cheesecake, cherries - £6.50
Drinks
Sparkling water - £2.20
Coke x2 - £5.60
Total: £77.30
