Caife Kitty,
Wild Atlantic Way,
R257, Magheraclogher, Bunbeg,
Co Donegal.
+353 83 034 9659
instagram.com/caifekitty
JUBILEE weekend. So, like the pioneers of America, yearning for space and freedom, my wife, my daughter, and I loaded up the wagon*, and headed away for the weekend, aiming to get as far west as possible without actually driving into the Atlantic. (* Not actually a wagon: more of a Mazda).
Our destination was a holiday cottage at the very tip of the Bloody Foreland, in a place so remote it doesn't have a name, so close to the ocean we had to swim from the car to the front door, albeit still close enough to hear the boos for Boris Johnson arriving at St Paul's.
Self-catering, of course, but we're hardy souls, tough, not afraid to fend for ourselves. And we had stripped the shelves of every pizza and ready meal available at Derry M&S. So, we had everything we needed for a weekend of sun, sea, and self-sufficiency.
My determination to live the good, simple life lasted until lunchtime the first morning we were there. The day started well enough, inasmuch as I managed to make toast for breakfast, but then went downhill sharpish.
Keen to show my daughter how much fun could be derived from simple pleasures, I dipped back into my childhood and took her and a kite down to the beach.
The first attempt nearly ended in disaster as the kite crashed into the sand, missing her head by a whisker. Second go, and the string broke. The kite is now in Newfoundland.
So we went fishing. Somehow, I managed to confuse reeling in with reeling out, so yards and yards (we're all imperial now) of line went into the water, and I ended up pulling it in by hand, only to find we had caught seaweed. And then I was attacked by a dog.
By this time, after a couple of hours demonstrating my incompetence to my daughter, I didn't even trust myself to stick a ready meal into the microwave. Prick with a fork was the last thing I wanted to hear. So, it was back into the prairie schooner and off in search of somewhere to eat.
And the somewhere we found was Caife Kitty, in Bunbeg. And we weren't the only ones. The place was packed, full of three generations of families having a grand time in this lively, little café. Our luck was in, and we got there just as a table became free.
Some places you just know are going to be good, and Caife Kitty is one of them. It's bright and stylish, and the happy faces were testament to its quality.
Everyone, it seemed, was tucking into the full Irish breakfast for lunch, and my wife didn't look further down the menu than this. I went for one of the specials, while my daughter chose pancakes, syrup and sausages, plus the ramekin of beans that my wife didn't want.
A full Irish is hard to beat at any time, and this was definitely a winner. Firstly, you could barely see the plate - always a good thing in my book. Secondly, they obviously source high-quality ingredients. Meaty, peppery sausages, thick slices of salty bacon, a lovely runny egg, toast, potato cakes, black and white pudding, all washed down with a pot of tea... it was all first rate and not a scrap left.
Maybe my daughter's pancakes were a touch sturdy, but they were full of flavour, and enhanced by the sweet and smoky maple syrup. My daughter is five, and so a big fan of sausages, and she enjoyed these ones so much that she started on my wife's.
My falafels were lovely, too, the sweet potato giving them more of a bite and a different flavour from the norm, and accompanied by beautiful chips, dusted with paprika.
Good apple pie – not too sweet, with a crisp pastry – and a bright and cheerful rainbow cake with light, airy sponge and smooth butter cream.
Donegal is an unbeatable place for a holiday, and I will never cease to marvel at its empty beaches and thrilling views. If you're round this way and tired of self-catering, be like us and stumble on Caife Kitty. It'll make your stay even better.
THE BILL
Pancakes, maple syrup, sausages – €8.50
Full Irish breakfast, with pot of tea – €9.00
Sweet potato falafels, fries, salad – €10.00
Rainbow cake – €4.00
Apple pie – €4.00
Coffee – €2.00
Total: €37.50
