Life

Travel: Family fun and horse play in the Causeway Coast and Glens of Antrim

Jenny Lee takes her family on a seaside and cross-country tour of the Causeway Coast and Glens

Looking up at Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge from our sea safari boat
Looking up at Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge from our sea safari boat Looking up at Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge from our sea safari boat

THE grandstands are up and preparations well in hand for the 148th Open at Royal Portrush in July, but during a spring visit to Antrim's north coast my family discovered there was much more to the area than golf.

I have happy childhood memories of caravanning in Portrush and our annual pilgrimage to Barry’s Amusements – a tradition I’ve passed on to my own two children. However, during our whistle-stop break, I explored areas and took part in activities I’ve never done in my previous 40 years of visiting the area.

Our first location was the seaside haven of Ballycastle, which retains much of its old charm, with independent retailers on every corner, not to mention ice cream parlours. My six and eight year old where straight over to the sandy, nautically themed harbour play area, before we went to the marina to board our Aquaholics sea safari (Aquaholics.co.uk).

Jenny Lee and family saddled up for horse trekking in Armoy
Jenny Lee and family saddled up for horse trekking in Armoy Jenny Lee and family saddled up for horse trekking in Armoy

We enjoyed the Puffin Express and Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge boat trip, under the guidance of skipper Richard, who provided us with fascinating facts about the area and its habitat.

A popular area for seals and dolphins, we were given a card to help us spot the sea creatures. Sadly they were shy during our trip but the kids certainly didn’t mind, as they enjoyed the roar of the “speed boat”, splashes of sea water in their faces and of course puffin spotting.

April to July is puffin season and west Rathlin is home to thousands of them, as well as guillemots, razorbills and gannets. It’s delightful to watch these creatures in their natural habitat.

Our boat then took us under the famous Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge, where tourists waved to us and made us feel like VIPs. Then it was along the coast, passing the ancient ruins of Kenbane Castle, before my son was allowed a few minutes at the wheel to skipper us back into Ballycastle Marina.

The sea air gave us an appetite and we journeyed into the lively seaside town of Portrush for tea with a view at the 55 Degrees North (55-north.com). Offering good value for money, our window table gave us stunning views over the Atlantic Ocean and the former Arcadia ballroom.

Our accommodation for the night was the Royal Court Hotel (royalcourthotel.co.uk), on the outskirts of Portrush. Our family suite once again had breathtaking views, of Co Donegal, the Scottish Isles and even a couple of holes of Royal Portrush.

Looking up at the Swan Sculpture on the promenade waterfront at Ballycastle
Looking up at the Swan Sculpture on the promenade waterfront at Ballycastle Looking up at the Swan Sculpture on the promenade waterfront at Ballycastle

To blow away the cobwebs the next morning, we enjoyed a walk along Whiterocks Beach, just opposite the hotel. Stretching right to Dunluce Castle, its strand, limestone cliffs and labyrinth of caves were a delight to explore.

Back on the road, we headed inwards to Sheans Horse Farm in Armoy (Sheanshorsefarm.com). Home to a team of 50 horses and ponies, they offer activities for all levels of riding.

Having only ever sat on a horse once before – about 15 years ago – I must admit I was a bit nervous. However, the staff quickly put you at ease and our family set off on the 70-minute Kilcroagh Trek, taking us on off-road tracks up the North Antrim hills, enjoying panoramic views looking over five counties. We were thankful to have our guides on hand to help when the horses decided to stop for a bite of grass or refused to go through a stream.

Whiterocks Beach, Portrush
Whiterocks Beach, Portrush Whiterocks Beach, Portrush

After our relaxing trek, we returned to the indoor arena and were given a 10-minute workout, learning to trot, the sight of their mum and dad bobbing up and down making the kids giggle.

Sheans Horse Farm is located only six miles from The Dark Hedges – our final stop before heading home – and, embarrassingly, our family's first visit to the famous tree-lined road, made more famous recently as a setting for Game Of Thrones.

Free parking is provided at The Hedges Hotel (Thehedgeshotel.com), where first we enjoyed a delicious Sunday lunch at The Scullery Restaurant. Then it was a two-minute walk to one of the most photographed locations in Europe. Getting there was fun, especially for my daughter; who enjoyed spotting fairy doors and houses during the woodland walk.

Despite time and weather causing a number of the trees to be lost, the avenue is still an impressive and atmospheric sight. During our visit one of the fallen trees which had come to rest in an adjoining field had a 'for sale' sign on it. Guided tours are also available, at a cost, and we overheard how supposedly a Chinese Game Of Thrones fan has offered over £10,000 for it. Any advances?

:: For further ideas on exploring the Causeway Coast and Glens region see visitcausewaycoastandglens.com and discovernorthernireland.com