THERE'S a difference between 'tampering' with classic recipes and 'improving' them, so says two-Michelin-starred chef, Marcus Wareing.
The 47-year-old restaurateur, best known for presenting MasterChef: The Professionals, has created a whole book based around that distinction.
New Classics, the follow-up tome to 2016's Marcus At Home, takes traditional favourites and puts a spin on them, as well as offering up original dishes the Southport-born chef hopes "could one day become classics in their own right".
"I do have a fabulous sweet tooth. When I was growing up, fruit was a big part of our life," says Marcus, recommending his poached peach with oat crumb and ricotta pudding, and recalling beautiful figs he'd buy with his father, who supplied local corner shops and schools with produce. It's those memories driving Marcus's next venture: growing his own.
"As a chef in central London, and who's worked in cities, I just want to go back to my roots," he muses. "As a boy, I used to spend a lot of time going round farms with my father. I'd see farmers digging up the raw produce, the carrots, the swedes, the potatoes, and the herbs and beetroot that we used to get – it was amazing, but I never really understood the growing aspect of it. I've missed it, I really feel that I want to be part of that."
He's found a fairly big farm in Kent to develop. "I've got some apple orchards and bees, so I'm going to start producing my own honey, and we're getting ready for the spring crop next year," says Marcus, buzzing at the prospect. "It's the first time I've ever done it in my life and I'm really excited."
The idea is that, long term, he'll have a kitchen garden to cook and write from, and "be inspired by what's in front of me".
In recent years, Marcus has been inspiring others as a judge on MasterChef, alongside the stern but brilliant Monica Galetti and dessert aficionado Gregg Wallace. We're currently halfway through season 10, although Marcus admits he's usually more interested in watching news and current affairs than cookery programmes himself.
"I'm looking for personality, for someone who really wants to be here in the kitchen; someone who's got ambition to really show us what they can do," he says on how he goes about identifying a winner. "Our job is to open up their brains up and let them see what's possible when you get those creative juices flowing. It's on the job feedback at quite an intense pace," he adds, noting that some "really stunning cookery comes out towards the end – absolutely mind-blowingly exceptional".
While his immediate future is filled with MasterChef and Christmas, Marcus has some rather adorable plans for the new year. "I want to get some little piglets," he says giddily. "I've never done it, but I've got some woodland on the farm as well. I want to put some piglets on there, but it's all got to be done right, and then," he pauses conspiratorially, "we can eat them!"
:: New Classics: Inspiring And Delicious Recipes To Transform Your Home Cooking by Marcus Wareing, photography by Jonathan Gregson, is published by HarperCollins, priced £20. Below are two recipes from the book for you to try.
HARISSA-MARINATED LAMB WITH MINT CHUTNEY, PISTACHIOS AND YOGHURT
(Serves 4)
3tsp harissa paste
4tbsp olive oil
4 lamb rumps, brined
2tbsp vegetable oil
30g pistachio nuts, toasted and roughly chopped
For the chutney:
6tbsp malt vinegar
2tsp caster sugar
4 shallots, finely sliced
4tbsp olive oil
1 bunch of mint, leaves separated and finely chopped
For the yoghurt dressing:
150g Greek yoghurt
1/4 cucumber, grated
1tsp cumin seeds, toasted and crushed sea salt
Mix two teaspoons of the harissa paste with the olive oil. Rinse the brined lamb rumps under cold running water and pat them dry with kitchen paper. Rub the harissa mix over the lamb rumps, place them in a container and chill for at least six hours (up to 12 hours).
Preheat the oven to 200C/180C fan.
To make the fresh mint chutney, heat the malt vinegar in a small saucepan. Add the sugar and dissolve over medium heat. Remove the pan from the heat and add the shallots. When cool, add the oil and set aside until ready to use.
To make the yoghurt dressing, mix all ingredients together in a bowl with the last teaspoon of harissa paste and season to taste.
Heat the vegetable oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. When hot, place the lamb rumps, fat side down, in the pan. Cook for five to eight minutes, until the fat begins to render and turn a lovely golden brown. Turn the rumps over and seal on all the other sides for a further five minutes, then place them on a foil-lined dish in the oven. Bake for five to 10 minutes, depending on how pink you like your lamb. Remove from the oven, cover with foil and leave somewhere warm to rest for five minutes.
Finish the mint chutney by adding the chopped fresh mint. Serve the lamb rumps with the mint chutney and yoghurt dressing, sprinkled with the pistachio nuts. Serve with a large green salad or roasted vegetables.
PLUM CLAFOUTIS
(Serves 4)
50g butter, plus extra for greasing
4tbsp demerara sugar
6 ripe plums, halved and stones removed
150ml double cream
150ml milk
Seeds from 1 vanilla pod
Grated zest of 1 lemon
2 eggs
45g caster sugar
45g plain flour
1 tbsp icing sugar, for dusting
ice cream, to serve
Lightly grease four 12-13cm ovenproof blini pans or ramekins with butter. Preheat the oven to 180C/160C fan. Put the demerara sugar in a small heavy-based saucepan or frying pan. Place over a medium heat and leave to melt and caramelise to a deep golden colour, swirling the pan occasionally (do not stir) to get even caramelisation – this will take five to eight minutes. Add the butter, whisk well and simmer for one to two minutes until well combined.
Pour a quarter of the caramel into each blini pan or ramekin then quickly, while the caramel is still hot, place three plum halves, cut side down, into the caramel. Put the cream, milk, vanilla seeds and lemon zest in a small saucepan and gently bring to the boil. Remove from the heat.
In a deep bowl, whisk together the eggs and sugar. Whisk in the flour, then gradually add the hot milk and cream, whisking continuously. Pour the batter over the plums in each pan or ramekin then place in the oven for around 15 minutes, until golden and cooked through. Remove from the oven, dust with icing sugar and serve immediately with your favourite ice cream.
