IT MAY well have been the original fast-food outlet – the quayside at the quaint fishing village of Anstruther on Scotland’s east coast, where herring girls could gut fish at a rate of 60 a minute in the heyday of the nation’s thriving fishing industry.
Looking at an old photo in Anstruther’s Scottish Fisheries Museum, it seemed many of them weren’t best suited to the job but, thankfully, it turned out that the bandaged rags on the girls’ fingers were actually testimony to a pre-emptive move against cuts by the razor-sharp knives.
However, this was 2015 – Scotland’s designated ‘Year of Food and Drink’ – and we were anticipating something finer than pickled herrings. The area my husband and I chose to visit (thanks to help from VisitScotland’s user-friendly website) was the Kingdom of Fife. Boasting a plentiful natural larder from both land and sea, and ‘jam-packed’ with award-winning food producers, creating everything from crumbly cheeses to craft beers, this region is a food lover’s dream destination.
The aptly named Stena Superfast VIII provides a comfortable ferry ride from Belfast to Cairnryan, and has the advantage of allowing you to take the car – which can then be loaded with copious amounts of luggage. We even sneaked in a picnic hamper in anticipation of some al fresco dining in picturesque Scottish locations.
Heading east, we established our base just outside St Andrews, staying at Rufflets Country House Hotel, a turreted mansion house, set in 10 acres of gardens, and one of the oldest country house hotels in Scotland.
The tranquil setting and relaxed atmosphere at Rufflets provides a little piece of paradise, just a five minute drive away from the bustle of the famous town. The hotel is owned by Ann Murray-Smith, whose flair for interior design has contributed to the warm character and stylish ambience of the 24 individually designed bedrooms (there are also three luxury self-catering lodges in the grounds, where dogs are welcome). Regarded as one of finest hotels in St Andrews, Rufflets has been awarded 4 Red Stars by the AA and 4 Gold Stars by VisitScotland.
Our food fest started at Rufflets 2AA Rosette Terrace Restaurant. Head Chef, Grant MacNicol produces seasonal menus using organic and locally sourced fresh Scottish produce wherever possible, some grown in Rufflets’ own gardens. As a member of the Scottish Beef Club, he uses fine quality 28-day aged Scotch beef of exceptional tenderness.
Locally reared lamb and venison, along with fish and seafood landed daily at East Neuk harbours, also provide the inspiration for Grant’s creativity and diners are in for a treat with this adventurous chef. His Cranachan Crème Brûlée (made with toasted oats, honey, whisky, raspberries and strawberry milkshake, served with Rufflets’ shortbread) delivers an outstanding hit of taste and texture, and a tin of the pixie-light shortbread is also thoughtfully placed in every bedroom.
A former Young Scottish Chef of the Year, Grant can even elevate the ubiquitous haggis to another level, with his unique twist on this revered dish giving it contemporary appeal.
Golfing legend Jack Nicklaus has been a regular guest at Rufflets when competing at St Andrews, but this fine old country house is by no means reliant on the golf market, gaining a deservedly growing reputation as a chilled out vacation venue and fine dining destination.
Acclaimed as the 'Home of Golf', St Andrews is busy preparing for the Open Championship, which returns later this month. The 3 AA Rosette Rocca Bar & Grill is the place to be then, with superb food from Head Chef Jamie Scott (Professional MasterChef 2014) and fantastic views over the 18th hole.
But, if you’re not a golf fanatic, don’t worry, this medieval town also offers excellent shopping, art galleries, restaurants and museums, along with an historic castle and cathedral ruins. And, of course, St Andrews University was the place where William and Kate’s royal romance blossomed. You can even visit the café where they canoodled over coffee, the meeting venue helpfully divulged on a large banner above the door.
Venturing further afield, there’s plenty more to enjoy. A scenic drive round the coast will take you through colourful fishing villages and stunning beaches as you wend your way along the Fife food trail. Balgove Larder in Strathtyrum and Ardross Farm Shop in Elie both offer a fabulous showcase for Fife producers.
Having packed a picnic basket in the car boot, we filled it with all sorts of goodies to enjoy on our days out. Artisan breads, local cheeses, onion marmalade, venison bresaola… the choice was impressive and extended to other specialist foods and drinks from outside the Fife area too.
Other food highlights included the famous Anstruther Fish Bar, favoured by locals and tourists alike, and Fisher and Donaldson’s Bakery in Cupar offering tortuously tempting dainty Scottish delicacies.
Call at St Andrews Farmhouse Cheese Company in Pittenweem and you can watch the cheese being made before buying some to take home while, nearby, The Pittenweem Chocolate Company’s Cocoa Tree Café, is a fabulously quirky little establishment serving speciality ‘Cocoa Tree’ chocolate cake and a decadent mochachino with white chocolate.
The recently opened Kingsbarns Distillery and Visitors Centre offers the opportunity to be part of history and watch Kingsbarns Single Scotch Malt Whisky in the making. The company started distilling in March, and as the spirit must mature in oak casks for at least three years and a day before it can be called Single Malt Whisky, visitors will have to wait until early 2018 to have their first dram.
As we were close by, it seemed a shame not to travel a little further north into Perthshire to enjoy a combination of casual country chic (dogs welcome here too) and luxurious living at Balathie Country House Hotel and Estate, a country sports lovers idyll, located on the banks of the River Tay. It’s also where head chef Scott Scorer brings together the finest produce from around Perthshire and Scotland to create seasonal menus of outstanding quality.
Ballathie is an ideal base from which to explore Perthshire, and on our short mid-week break we were able to take in the diverse delights of Balmoral Castle, Braemar Castle, Scone Palace and, on the return to Cairnryan, Stirling Castle – all offering a fascinating glimpse into Scotland’s rich royal heritage.
As a recipe for short breaks success you’ll find all the ingredients you need in Scotland during its Year of Food and Drink. It’s a Celtic land bursting with lip-smackingly luscious produce, steeped in history and boasting spectacular scenery – all only a short ferry ride away.
FACT FILE
:: Rufflets Country House Hotel; 0133 447 2594 (rufflets.co.uk)
:: Ballathie Country House Hotel and Estate; 0125 0883 268 (ballathiehousehotel.com)
:: VisitScotland (visitscotland.com)
:: Stena Line Belfast to Cairnryan offers up to six sailings a day on the Stena Superfast VII and Stena Superfast VIII, from £79 for single car and driver. Onboard facilities include restaurant, kids’ play area, various lounges, including POD lounge with iPads and Xboxes, Pure Nordic Spa (from £10 per person), plus upgrade to the luxurious Stena Plus lounge (with complimentary snacks and beverages), Superfast Suites (from £30 per cabin) or Stena Plus from £12 per person single. (08447 707070; stenaline.co.uk).
