Food & Drink

Weekend Q&A: Derry fishmonger Brendan Moore on moving back home from London, Derry's food scene and chilling out on Sundays

Brendan Moore (42) is an independent fishmonger operating as Moore on the Quay at Foyle Marina. The Derry-based seafood expert is about to star in an episode of Randy's LegenDerry Adventure, presented on RTE.ie by chef Randy Lewis

Derry fishmonger Brendan Moore with Canadian food adventurer Randy Lewis, pictured left, while filming an episode of Randy's LegenDerry Adventure for RTE.ie
Derry fishmonger Brendan Moore with Canadian food adventurer Randy Lewis, pictured left, while filming an episode of Randy's LegenDerry Adventure for RTE.ie Derry fishmonger Brendan Moore with Canadian food adventurer Randy Lewis, pictured left, while filming an episode of Randy's LegenDerry Adventure for RTE.ie

How do you unwind at the weekend?

One of the biggest draws about moving back home from London in 2019 was having the delights of Derry and Donegal on our doorstep. My wife Sarah's parents have a place in Dunfanaghy - it's a great wee town that's buzzy 52 weeks of the year. The beaches are some of the most stunning Ireland has to offer. In London, I had a market stall plus two shops. We decided to move, partly for my sons Magnus (5) and Vincent (2) to have a different lifestyle. Most people thought I was mad opening a business during Covid, but I knew food would remain a success story. People were still eating but couldn't go out, so loved my big fish from Greencastle, the turbot and John Dory.

What do you recall most about weekends growing up?

I was brought up in rural Derry, in Tamnaherin. I went fishing from no height. Dad took me and my two brothers trout fishing - my sister wasn't interested. The other thing I remember is the Sunday roast. And if it was one of our birthdays for a treat we would go to Fiorentini's ice cream parlour in Derry. Now we take our boys there and the other day the eldest enjoyed a knickerbocker glory.

Friday night or Saturday night?

Saturday night for sure. My weekend doesn't start until 4pm on a Saturday.

Do you have a must-listen weekend radio show?

BBC Radio 6 is always on in the kitchen. I like Mark Radcliffe and being introduced to new artists and genres, but my go-to on Spotify is '50s rock'n'roll.

Have you a must-watch TV show/box set?

We're really involved in Call My Agent on Netflix at the minute. But I'm featuring in an episode of Randy's LegenDerry Food, fronted by Canadian celebrity chef Randy Lewis, so I'll be watching that. Randy was very down to earth and if I can show people what's on our doorstep, I'll be pleased. Randy got fish from me then cooked it with Phelim O'Hagan who was on Great British Menu - they did a terrific cod and clams.

Do you have a favourite eatery or is it a takeaway?

Depends what mood I'm in. In Derry we have some great chefs doing their thing at the moment. Kevin Pyke of Pyke 'N' Pommes has really elevated the street food scene here. Ray Moran of Soda & Starch is creating some knock out dishes, all with locally sourced ingredients. When I have an urge for a takeaway it's very hard to look past the sourdough pizzas of Scarpello's or Nonna's wood fired pizzas.

Is Sunday still special?

Absolutely - with two young boys it's a day to spend doing family things. I love properly cooking on Sundays. I remember my mother Dolores, who spent her working life in kitchens, baking. A nice chilled out, relaxed atmosphere will do me rightly after a long week. Lately I got my eldest boy involved in making some homemade lobster ravioli.

How do you feel on Sunday night about Monday morning?

We've a running joke that Monday is just fishmonger's Sunday. Traditionally fishmongers wouldn't open on a Monday because there would be no markets open so no fresh fish about. On Sunday night I feel delighted and never have the Monday blues.