Hidden City Café,
2 London Street,
Derry,
BT48 6RQ
028 7141 3280
hiddencitycafe.co.uk
THE message printed beneath the café's name on the receipt still reads 'Shh! It's a secret. Don't tell anyone', making a jokey virtue of its location, tucked away down a narrow side street in a quiet part of town.
The cat's out of that particular bag. A couple of weeks back, the Hidden City Café received the Travellers' Choice Award from Tripadvisor, and features in the worldwide top 10 per cent of the site's restaurants. This secret love's no secret anymore.
Time was, I used to come here every Saturday, either to eat in or to pick up some sandwiches to take away for lunch. And then circumstances changed, and my list of Saturday morning messages grew longer and before I knew it there was no time to call in. And then there was the pandemic, and now suddenly it's at least two years since I was here.
It opens in the evening now, Fridays and Saturdays, leastways, from 6pm to 9pm, so here was an opportunity for me to return, along with my wife, daughter and brother.
It was good to be back.
The evening menu splits into two halves of A4. On one half, you find all the single dishes on offer. On the other, there's a menu within a menu.
This is what they call the Chat Plates Deal, for two people sharing – small plates, side bowls, salads, and dips and spreads. Both sides very heavily favour vegan and vegetarian dishes, although there are a few meat options, too.
My brother chose the chicken burger with fries. The burger was almost too big, a really thick and chunky hunk of meat – nicely moist and flavoursome – encased in a thin batter, that came with a crisp salad and a deliciously sweet and tangy apricot and mango chutney.
My wife and I shared a Chat Plate Deal. One thing you can't miss about the food at Hidden City is how good it looks. When all the Chat Plate dishes were arrayed on the table, they absolutely danced with colours – bright yellows, greens both vivid and soft, reds shining and muted, rich black, deep gold. You just can't wait to try it all.
The chicken kebab was very good. Again, the chicken came in a generous portion, coated this time in a mild and pleasant dry curry rub. The chicken soon went, but the noodles that came with it lacked seasoning and heat, so one forkful was enough.
Although the batter was too thick, we both really enjoyed the halloumi fries, lovely sticks of salty cheese, firm and then giving.
I'd say, though, that the side dishes and dips are the best things on the menu. We'd have happily spent the evening with a basket of the lovely bread, a couple of bowls of the terrific fries, and a selection of the dips. These were beautiful – the peanut spread hot, sweet, and earthy, the guacamole creamy and delicate, the hummus with a lovely hit of harissa.
I would recommend Hidden City without reservation, although not for the food. Don't get me wrong, the food here is good, no doubt about that, but there's more to it than that.
It's not a restaurant, but it serves food. Not a bar, but there's a terrific drinks menu. Not a club, but you won't hear a better playlist.
It's like a café that has lingered into the evening, like a slowly setting sun. It's almost like it's stayed open by accident, with the staff enjoying each other's company too much to go home, and the owner, Justin, deeply engrossed in something on his laptop over there in the corner, not noticing the time. You can just wander in and make yourself at home.
There are plenty of bars in the city where people like to go to hold court. Hidden City is the kind of place where everyone gets to have their say, and everyone gets to listen.
It's a special place, unlike anywhere else in Derry, mellow and casual, an easy tempo, friendly but not intrusive, full of thought and conviction, without being earnest.
It's not easy to put your finger on what it is about Hidden City, but, whatever it is, it works.
THE BILL
Prices for four
Chicken burger, harissa hummus, apricot and mango chutney - £8.95
Child's plate of roast chicken - £1.50
Fries - £3.75
Chat plate deal – £24.00
Drinks
San Pellegrino - £1.75
Glass, Melea Verdejo Sauvignon Blanc - £4.95
Total: £44.90
