Life

Covid-19-free Arranmore ready to forego next two tourist seasons 'if it means saving one life'

Prompt action has meant Arranmore Island, off the Donegal coast, is one of the few places in Ireland to be coronavirus free – but it hasn't been easy, residents say

Arranmore Island, closed to visitors since mid-March, has so far kept Covid-19 at bay. Picture by Sebastian Sebo
Arranmore Island, closed to visitors since mid-March, has so far kept Covid-19 at bay. Picture by Sebastian Sebo Arranmore Island, closed to visitors since mid-March, has so far kept Covid-19 at bay. Picture by Sebastian Sebo

CASTING an eye over the bookings for Arranmore Island's beach-front hostel back in early March, manager Sebastian Sebo noted that it was shaping up to be his busiest summer yet.

He recalls discussing this with hostel owner and Arranmore's resident spokesman Jerry Early and how animated both men were as they looked forward to a bumper tourist season.

“We were so happy about this,” says Krakow-born Sebastian, who set up home on the remote island, 5km off the Donegal coast, three years ago. “It was going to be a great 2020 for us; the best year since I moved here.”

Less than a fortnight later, Arranmore Island was in lockdown as the number of Covid-19 cases around Ireland started to climb. Even before the Irish government had announced its sweeping restrictions to try and slow the spread of the virus, the islanders had decided to cut themselves off from the rest of the world. The hostel closed its doors, as did the island's two hotels, pubs and holiday village. Social distancing was implemented straight away, with a ban on gatherings of more than two people.

And, significantly, movement between the island and mainland Donegal was brought to a halt, save for food deliveries and visits by doctors. The two ferry operators were briefed to intercept anyone making for the island and turn them away.

This quick response to the pandemic has paid off so far. Arranmore, with its population of 469 in the 2016 census, is one of only a handful of places in Ireland untouched by Covid-19.

For an island which prides itself on its hospitality and warm welcome, shunning non-residents, day-trippers and tourists is uncharacteristic and potentially an economic disaster. Not only will the tourists be staying away, but the hundreds of Irish-language students who invade the place every summer will be absent this year.

The people of Arranmore are making many sacrifices as they attempt to keep Covid-19 away from their community, which includes almost 200 pensioners. The adopted slogan of the global crisis 'we're all in this together' couldn't be more pertinent to the island's inhabitants.

Father-of-three and Arranmore figurehead Jerry Early owns the popular haunt Early's Bar as well as the hostel. He admits that at the start of the pandemic, he was sceptical it would be so grave and long-lasting. After talking to a few other residents, though, who feared what was to come, it was agreed to shut down the island and stop all travel between it and Burtonport.

“We were out of the blocks before that weekend of March 13,” Jerry says. “Even before it was mandatory for all businesses to close, we shut down.

“The two ferry companies which service the island have been very good at screening who comes here and who doesn't. Only those who need to be here get to visit.

“We have some agencies and committees which each have their own remit but have all pulled together from the outset to keep this virus from our island. The people doing the least by adhering to the guidelines of social distancing and self-isolation are actually doing the most.

“A large percentage of our islanders are aged over 70. My own parents are cocooning here. We're doing everything we can to protect them. There's a great sense of community and solidarity on Arranmore at the moment, more so than ever before. That adage is so true – 'we're coming together by staying apart'.”

Two of Jerry's children returned to the island to be with their parents ahead of lockdown but their middle daughter, a front-line pharmacist, is working in Gweedore.

“It's tough for her,” Jerry says. “It's tough for any islander not living here. There are people in Letterkenny, Galway, Mayo. They could've easily upped sticks and come home to their elderly parents but chose not to. Sometimes the unsung heroes are the ones who don't travel home.”

A community nurse does his calls round the island, maintaining social distancing, while doctors from the mainland hold telephone-led clinics on Arranmore. Each of the 13 townlands has appointed a volunteer and a network of helpers ensures no-one on the island is neglected. According to Jerry, in such a tight-knit community means everyone knows everyone else's business, which, at this moment in time, is a gift.

“We've all been in isolation since the start,” he says. “We're like one big family. We know each other's movement and who we've been in contact with.

“And yes, it's amazing that we've managed to keep it at bay so far – a miracle really – but forever is a long time. My biggest fear is that once they start relaxing restrictions, people will become complacent. But for now, we're still good with lockdown. There are no tourists, no speedboats or jet-skis, no one stopping off for a pizza and pint."

He adds: "And to be honest, we could easily forego this season and next, if it means saving one life.”

Nóirín Uí Mhaoldomhnaigh manages Arranmore Island Development Co-Operative, which promotes tourism, the Irish language and culture. It also operates the holiday village and provides a cafe and fuel service.

Like everywhere else on the island, the social enterprise is closed but fuel and animal feed are delivered once a week and the cafe is open for takeaways at weekends. A handful of shops stock food provisions, delivered from the mainland. The day care centre is closed but a meals on wheels service carries on and Mass for the island's faithful is livestreamed online. People have what they need, Nóirín says.

Around the Easter break, the eight self-catering cottages in the holiday village should have been full with holidaymakers; this year they lay empty. Tourism has been badly affected. And yet, the islanders are getting on with their lives and making the most of a bad situation.

“People are keeping themselves busy with painting, gardening, turf cutting,” she says. “Some are jogging or cycling. But they're all doing it in isolation.

“The great thing about this place is that it's not built up. We don't live in close proximity to each other. We have hills, mountains and a beach. If we want space, we'll find it easily enough.”

The cancellation of the two Irish-language courses over the summer will have a huge impact on the community. For many who house the students, their presence is a source of income; for others a source of youthful vibrancy.

“The Irish language college is the heartbeat of Arranmore,” says John McCafferty, Community Hall manager. “They arrive in mid-June and are here until the first week in August, bringing all their energy and enthusiasm. There's a real buzz around the island when they're here.

“Part of the building where I work is home to the island's gym. We also have the men's shed, a sports hall, offices, computer suite and a meeting room, which is widely used by different groups.

“This place is usually really busy. Today I'm the only staff member here. It's been so strange the last month or so.

“Normally, from 3pm onwards, there'd be kids here playing indoor football or basketball or using the computer suite. You'd be going around a corner, trying to avoid running into them. It's hard to get your head around the place being so quiet.

“Of course we're missing people on our island. We also run a kayaking and sailing school through the centre, which attracts people from all over the country. Tourism is our mainstay and we're taking a huge hit.

“But as much as we miss the tourists, our families are too important to us to take any risks. We are all of the one voice here on Arranmore, to protect our island from this horrible virus. Please God may it stay away.”