Life

Travel: Kilkenny a charming mix of arty-boho and traditional Irish

Bimpe Archer and her family enjoy a fleeting visit to Ireland’s ‘Ancient East’ with a 48 hour stay in Kilkenny

The banks of the River Nore in Kilkenny
The banks of the River Nore in Kilkenny The banks of the River Nore in Kilkenny

WHAT a difference a year makes. In 2018 I was enjoying my birthday, child-free on a Sardinian beach: 2019 found me munching on a Tesco chocolate fudge cake with both sprogs at a picnic table outside a motorway service station on the M1 into Dublin.

Still paying off the former made a staycation a necessity, the spectre of a Brexit looming with a possible attendant hard border may make this year the last for some time that the Republic can be so classified.

It was a lovely cake – "100 'thumbs up'," as the five-year-old would say – but we weren't holidaying in an Applegreen. And so on, along the tricky M50 (pay that ticket, guys), then the M9 and onto the N10, finally to Kilkenny.

It's a straight run from Belfast really. As we motor along I can't think why I've never been before. A mediaeval city: given I studied the period at university, it is astounding I never made the trip.

Instead, many of like my northern counterparts I heeded the siren call of the western shorelines, of Sligo and Donegal and Galway. Ireland's so-called 'Ancient East' hadn't been on my itinerary.

Our home away from home for two nights was to be the aptly named Hotel Kilkenny. Easily found just off the city's ring road, we pulled into the car park and made our way past an elegant terrace where fellow holidaymakers were already enjoying alfresco drinks in the sunshine.

The Hotel Kilkenny is easily found just off the city's ring road
The Hotel Kilkenny is easily found just off the city's ring road The Hotel Kilkenny is easily found just off the city's ring road

The hotel itself is a stylish, modern establishment, with a chic reception well manned by a smartly-suited team of smilingly efficient receptionists. Although a little early, we were quickly directed to our room – a blessing with two small children, who managed to be both travel-worn and stir-crazy.

Bright, spacious and airy, the family room had a double bed in between two singles, which meant we had the delight of nocturnal giggling fits coming to us in stereo.

The décor was reminiscent of the kind of Hollywood luxury that simply demanded gathering up the sprogs for an impromptu photoshoot – the light was so good anyone with an Instagram account probably won't actually leave the room for the duration of their stay.

With the aforementioned terrace and bar just a stroll away, we decamped to refresh the adults and allow the children to burn off a bit of steam before the inevitable early dinner. The 20 metre pool will do both – remember to pack swimming caps.

Taste is the fine dining restaurant, offering more of the hotel's trademark elegance. Thankfully, staff that are warmly accommodating of littler diners.

As we tucked into paté, Caesar salad, rump of lamb and hake, the children were munching away on fish and chips and mild chicken curry.

Kilkenny Castle
Kilkenny Castle Kilkenny Castle

The restaurant is also where breakfast is served in the morning: a generous combination of self-service continental and cooked to order hot food, varied enough to please most palates. On busier mornings, the waiter service is a little mixed.

The heart of the city centre purports to be a five minute walk away, but, surmising that does not account for toddler pace, we decided to drive. Most of the parking spaces are on-street pay-and-display and as tricky to find as any other large town or small city.

Finding a handily situated supermarket on the river, we bought picnic provisions and parked up. The city is a charming mix of arty-boho and traditional Irish, with a row of pubs and a Home Rule Club peering across River Nore at more recently established and cafés, ice cream parlours and creperies beyond.

The streets of Kilkenny
The streets of Kilkenny The streets of Kilkenny

A Capuchian friary sits teeth by jowl with an Asian fusion restaurant, while art and craft shops are side-by-side with upscale bars and restaurants. And, above them all, in the isolating splendour of its own magnificent grounds, stands Kilkenny Castle.

Say what you like about the landed gentry, they know how to pick their real estate.

Founded soon after the Norman conquest, when it is probably fair to say they were throwing up motte-and-bailies everywhere, the fact Kilkenny Castle was continuously inhabited right up until 1967 should give some indication of its attractive aspect.

Kilkenny Castle park
Kilkenny Castle park Kilkenny Castle park

And it's not just any old castle: the first was built by Strongbow, no less.

My inner mediaeval fangirl really went into overdrive when I found out it was owned by William Marshall. THE William Marshall. William Marshall? OK, just me then.

My husband, who takes his surname very seriously, was diverted for many pleasant minutes by the discovery of nearby street called Archers Avenue (no really, I have the pictures of him pointing delightedly at the `YOU ARE HERE' map) and the slits in the castle walls where he fancies his ancestors let fly their arrows back in the day.

The children were thrilled by the vast parkland where we found another picnic table (it was becoming the birthday theme) for our repast. If you didn't want to explore the interior, an entire day could be wiled away outside in the sunshine with a picnic blanket and provisions.

You could literally have several teams playing 11-aside football if it wasn't for those pesky tourists – said nobody ever. But it is well worth venturing inside to really step back in time.

Handed over to the people of Kilkenny for €50, a staggering amount of work has been put into its restoration and excavation is continuing to uncover the castle's earliest incarnations. Even if you don't opt for the guided tour, knowledgeable attendants are everywhere to fill in the gaps with family tales and information.

Afterwards, a stroll round the ornamental gardens and an ice cream in the shade before a return to the hotel for a swim.

We drove home the next day with the strong feeling that two nights with two children is not long enough to explore the city, never mind the rest of the Ancient East.

Still, it's in the sat nav now and we will be back. 1,000 thumbs up.

FACT FILE

:: Bimpe Archer stayed at the four-star Hotel Kilkenny, which has 138 rooms and the Active Club, where visitors can enjoy the heated indoor 20m pool, gym, sauna steam room and jacuzzi. Two-night stay family stay available for two adults and two children under 12 from '360 with kids club from 9.30am to 12.30pm and 5pm to 10pm. Hotelkilkenny.ie

:: She visited Kilkenny Castle which has self-guided tours for €8 (adults), €6 (concession), €4 (children) and €20 (family) and guided tours for €12 (adults) €10 (concession), €6 (child/student) and €30 (family). Kilkennycastle.ie