Life

Eating Out: The Beehive a delightful place on the edge of the Atlantic Ocean

The Beehive in Keel on Achill Island, Co Mayo. Picture by Dominic Kearney
The Beehive in Keel on Achill Island, Co Mayo. Picture by Dominic Kearney The Beehive in Keel on Achill Island, Co Mayo. Picture by Dominic Kearney

The Beehive Craft Coffee Shop

Keel

Achill Island

Co Mayo

HOLIDAY time. With the whole world to choose from, we decided to rent a cottage on Achill Island.

It was a strange journey down there; the longer we drove, the further away it seemed to get. Eventually, we neared our destination. In theory, at least. As we passed through Mulranny – or Mallaranny, depending on which sign you looked at – a full-scale storm hit. Nothing could be seen through the rain-thick air: there was certainly no view to Achill.

Nevertheless, we somehow made it to the cottage, to find the Atlantic Ocean somewhat closer than the website had suggested.

As I drifted off to sleep that night, counting the sheep bobbing by the upstairs window, I recalled the moment we settled on a holiday in Ireland, and my wife’s words came back to me. Sure, why would you go anywhere else?

We awoke the next morning to find things had improved drastically, which is to say it was still raining but the gale had been downgraded to severe. Perfect weather for exploring the island, in other words.

Now, while to some people exploring might mean checking out museums or galleries or rock faces or magnificent vistas or sites of geological/historical/social interest, to me, it just means one thing: finding somewhere good to eat. Driving through Keel, we spotted a likely place, the Beehive – clean, modern, fresh, and sharp from the outside – and we decided to give it a go.

Well, while appearances can be deceptive and first impressions aren’t always to be trusted, that just wasn’t the case here. There’s very little about the Beehive that isn’t simply delightful.

Spacious, light, and airy, the Beehive serves food throughout the day, as well as offering a selection of crafts and clothing from throughout Ireland. While combining the two might risk falling between two stools, that doesn’t happen here, as the amount of room means you never feel you’re eating in a clothes shop, or shopping in a restaurant. (The goods on sale are well worth a look, by the way, as the coachloads of visitors brought here by tour operators who know their business would testify).

The three of us were only interested in the food, however. We got our daughter a bowl of vegetable soup. This was deep, warming, and full of flavour, perfectly seasoned. A woman at the next table, who appeared to know her soup, declared it the best she’d ever tasted.

We also ordered the bacon and cheddar quiche for our daughter, in case she didn’t like the soup (translation: because I couldn’t decide between the quiche and the mackerel). This was a lovely flan, with great pastry, a lovely consistency to the filling, properly cheesy and plenty of bacon, and a sweet, rich tomato relish for contrast.

The smoked mackerel was just outstanding, soft flakes with a powerful flavour, gently warmed to bring out all the richness of the fish, with melted butter to add an extra special touch, and a horseradish sauce to spruce everything up. The poached salmon fillet was just as good, beautifully cooked, with a tender and delicate taste.

The salads which accompanied each dish deserve special mention. It wasn’t a case of just bunging a few limp leaves on the side of the plate. Yes, there was lettuce, but you also got fennel, capers, beetroot sauce, pomegranate seeds, and watermelon, a carefully orchestrated riot of flavours.

It would have been rude not to have pudding. Not being the type of people to offend, we forced ourselves to indulge. The standard stayed high. The apple pie pastry was crisp and buttery, and the filling soft, sweet, and gently sharp.

The orange cake was deliciously moist and bitter, and both luxuriant and refreshing. The cheesecake was a bit of a triumph, too. It was baked, so it was fuller and more rounded than a cheesecake just set in the fridge, with the peach providing a welcome lift.

Normally when we’re away on holiday, to feel adventurous, we make a point of trying different places to eat. The Beehive was so good, however, we came back again and again, and never once regretted it. Sure, why would you go anywhere else?

THE BILL

Smoked mackerel salad €12.95

Achill salmon salad €13.95

Bacon and cheddar quiche, salad €10.95

Vegetable soup, bread €5.50

Baked peach cheesecake

Apple pie

Orange cake €5.70 each

Total: €60.45 (£53.79)