SCOTLAND has long been a popular choice for those in the north in need of a weekend break. Glasgow and Edinburgh are both within easy reach for a couple of days of sightseeing, shopping and culture, with direct flights cheap and plentiful.
However, there are also excellent sea links in place – as I discovered during a pre-Christmas 48-hour visit to Edinburgh by car, courtesy of P&O Ferries.
Getting there
This was my first time driving to Scotland and, while flying might be quicker, there’s something undeniably appealing about the roll-on/roll-off experience of P&O’s ferry service between Larne and Cairnryan, which eliminates baggage restrictions and airport security hassles.
The two-hour crossing is made all the more bearable by paying a small premium for access to the cosy P&O Club Lounge, which is equipped with sofas, wif-fi, a TV and free newspapers/magazines, plus enough free snacks and hot/cold beverages to sink the Titanic. There’s even a waiter-serviced hot food menu available (at additional cost).
It’s then about a two-and-a-half hour car journey from Cairnryan to the Scottish capital, the majority of it an easy motorway drive, especially with the aid of Google Maps/satnav. It’s hardly the most breathtaking of Scottish odysseys, but happily there’s a ton of sightseeing to be done in Edinburgh itself.
What to do
Any visit to Edinburgh should start with a stroll through the city’s atmospheric Old Town, a medieval slew of cobbled streets and narrow alleyways studded with boutique shops, eateries and watering holes.
Situated right at the heart of Old Town, The Royal Mile runs between Edinburgh Castle – a great spot from which to check out an elevated view of the city centre before taking a tour of the 12th century fort itself – and the Queen’s Edinburgh home-from-home, the Palace of Holyroodhouse (daily tours are available), where you can also access royal-owned art at the Queen’s Gallery.
The 640-acre green space of Holyrood Park is where you'll find another famous Edinburgh landmark, Arthur’s Seat. At 251m above sea-level, many a hangover has been conquered via a sweaty 45-minute ascent to this breathtaking viewpoint perched atop an ancient volcano.
December tourists can enjoy Edinburgh’s annual Christmas Market in the Georgian New Town. Located in Princes Street Gardens, just off one of the city centre’s busiest shopping thoroughfares, admission is free. Mulled wines, sweet/savoury treats and local arts/crafts are on offer, plus a mini-amusement park complete with its own ‘big wheel’.
Visitor attractions
Scotland can be bitterly cold and wet at this time of year, but luckily there’s lots of indoor activities to avail of throughout this tourist-friendly city.
:: Camera Obscura & World of Illusions: situated right beside Edinburgh Castle, we loved this family-friendly five-floors of crazy optical illusions and vivid visuals-based amusements, housed beneath a working camera obscura: discover how the Victorians invented CCTV, quote your favourite lines from Predator in the Thermal Camera room, get lost in Mirror Maze and try not to regurgitate your lunch while navigating the stomach-churning Vortex Tunnel. Advance booking recommended.
:: Scotch Whisky Experience: Located right across the street from CO&WOI, the history of one of Scotland’s most beloved exports comes to life at an attraction that’s part audio/visual theme park ride, part interactive tour, the latter element offering you the chance to discover the science behind the various regional variations before sampling a wee dram of your choosing while checking out the world’s largest collection of scotch whisky. Advance booking recommended.
Eating & Drinking
:: Burgers & Beer Grillhouse: A handy filling station on the Royal Mile, while the eats ain’t cheap at this American-style café – prices range from an eye-watering £12.95 for their basic Uncle Sam Burger to a whopping £18.95 for the belly-busting Man vs Burger – you do get plenty of bang for your buck.
My gravity-defying, haggis fritter-enhanced Frying Scotsman burger was superb and went well with a bottle of thirst-slaking Edinburgh Gold ale from the city’s award-wining Stewart Brewing. For ‘dessert’, I sampled B&B’s delicious Buckfast-laced White Russian-based tipple, Anti-Social Christmas. “Ring in Christmas with the sound of sirens”, the menu advised: thankfully, ‘the hoose’ remained un-wrecked on this occasion.
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:: Hawksmoor: Meat-lovers should be sure to make a reservation at steak specialists Hawksmoor. Centrally located in the impressive grade A listed former National Bank of Scotland Banking Hall, the Edinburgh branch of this popular meaterie offers sublime steaks of genuine ‘last meal’ standard, carved from locally sourced, grass-fed and dry-aged beef.
Their perfectly medium-rare 350g Rib-Eye might be the best thing I’ve ever tasted, while they were definitely spoiling us with their signature choc-nut dessert Ambassador’s Reception, for which they donate 50p per order to local homeless charity Social Bite.
:: Rhubarb at Prestonfield House: Should you feel the urge to avail of a ‘fine dining’ experience in Edinburgh, consider a visit to this former stately home turned five star hotel.
It’s worth booking at Rhubarb – named for former owner Sir Alexander Dick's claim to fame of having first introduced the fruit to Europe – just to take in the opulent dining area, a candle-lit Georgian drawing room bedecked with plush carpeting, vividly embossed wallpaper and matching heavy duty floor-to-ceiling velvet drapes.
There’s an extensive and frighteningly expensive wine list to explore, but apart from the delicious desserts, we weren’t actually that keen on Rhubarb’s food, nor its fussy ‘five waiters when two would do’ table service.
However, others do seem to rate their cuisine more favourably.
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:: The Oxford Bar: The favourite watering hole of Edinburgh’s most famous fictional detective, John Rebus (and indeed his creator, Ian Rankin), this cosy old-school pub with literary leanings offers fireside refuge from inclement weather and/or the Princes Street hordes, plus plenty of proper beer on tap.
Accommodation
We stayed in the Courtyard by Marriott Edinburgh West, a modern and very comfortable hotel situated five miles from the city centre beside the Herriot Watt University campus. There’s free parking for guests and it’s well-served by public transport, with bus journeys in/out of town taking around 30/45 minutes depending on traffic.
Driving into town is always an option, but finding city centre parking can be stressful – especially on Sundays when on-street spaces are free of charge.
Beyond Edinburgh
Just a couple of miles north of Edinburgh and easily accessible on foot or by car/bus, the pretty, vibrant port town of Leith is well worth a visit if you have time.
Explore the Royal Yacht Britannia, grab lunch at hip veggie eatery (the Vegan Club sandwich at 305 Kitchen on Leith Walk is excellent), browse vintage clothing and furniture outlets, or go crate-digging at cult record shop Elvis Shakespeare – you might as well take advantage of having a car on hand to cart away any 'finds'.
FACT FILE
P&O Ferries’ fares start from £84 each way from Larne to Cairnryan for a car and driver, with up to seven sailing per day.
Customers can upgrade to enjoy the Club Lounge from £12 pp booked in advance (£14 pp if booked on board), which currently includes free Priority Boarding for Cars (worth £6).
For further information on all sailings and the latest offers visit Poferries.com or call 0800 130 0030.
Rooms at the Courtyard by Marriott Edinburgh West start from £70. Book online at Marriott.com/hotels/travel/edihw-courtyard-edinburgh-west
Visit This Is Edinburgh at Edinburgh.org for visitor information and suggested itineraries.
