Ardtara Country House, 8 Gortreade Road, Maghera, Co Derry
I’VE often thought I might be a changeling. You know, that I was taken home from the hospital as a baby by the wrong parents. I’m pretty certain there’s some gobby Scouse urchin living it up in my mansion on the Wirral, driving my Ferrari, spending my inheritance, while I struggle with a manner I simply wasn’t born to.
There are reasons for this feeling. My aristocratic profile, for one. My noble bearing. My penchant for cutting sandwiches from corner to corner rather than side to side. The fact that I use words like penchant.
At times, it’s more than a feeling: I’m absolutely convinced of it. Such a time came at Ardtara Country House, where we’d booked for Sunday lunch. It’s a solid, sturdy pile sitting off the beaten track, hidden by woods from the road. The furnishings are tasteful and comfortably worn. It feels like old money. Do you know what I mean? None of your tat.
It’s the type of place I belong in, a gentleman of independent means, huntin’, shootin’, fishin’, lording it graciously over the forelock-tugging tenants, maybe doing a spot of amateur sleuthing when the Yard is especially baffled.
But no. There I was, in one of the drawing rooms, waiting for my wife to arrive, with my brother whose party trick is burping the theme to The Beverley Hillbillies, and my baby daughter, hair still matted with yesterday’s wheat biscuits. Supermarket own brand – not even proper Weetabix.
Gosh, this is a lovely place. Coming to Ardtara is like going round to have dinner at the home of charming, obliging, welcoming friends who are brilliant cooks and who also do the washing up. (Except you have to pay, but I guess that’s only fair).
Only one thing one the menu – the slightly gluey cheese sauce with the vegetable side order – came in at below gorgeous. For starters, the heirloom tomato salad was fresh and clean and subtle. The pork belly was meaty and full of flavour, nicely enhanced by a delicious sauce. Having only ever had corned beef from a tin, I was keen to try the corned beef here, and was very impressed, I must say, by its texture and taste, although the best thing about the dish was the fantastic sharp and sweet piccalilli which just lit up the palate.
The roast chicken was moist and succulent and came with a delicious mushroom and bacon sauce which added real depth and earthiness. The cheddar and onion tart was right on the money, too. The savouriness of the cheese and the sweetness of the onions went together perfectly, and then there was a different kind of sweetness from the pear chutney adding a new dimension.
The lamb was cooked to perfection – soft, melting, tender, and well-seasoned. By the way, if you order the lamb, get the accompanying sauces on the side. Good as they were, this beautiful meat doesn’t need them. All these came with crisp roast potatoes, where soft and fluffy followed crunch.
Just when we thought things couldn’t get better, they did. The puddings. I’m not one for trifle, but this rhubarb and custard combination changed my mind. Creamy, tangy, sweet, sharp, and lovely. But anything that could do, the lemon tart could do better. This absolutely sang.
And then, oh my goodness, the chocolate marquise – devilishly rich and dark, with a fantastic hazelnut cream that contrasted and complemented the chocolate faultlessly.
After coffee, we wandered round the ground floor lounges, and looked into the gardens for a brief stroll. Such an easy, relaxing end to a perfect meal.
I didn’t want to leave. If life was fair, they’d let me move in. Sadly, it isn’t, and they won’t. A taste of honey is worse than none at all. Especially when the honey tastes this good.
THE BILL
Starters
Turf smoked corned beef, pickles, watercress
Heirloom tomato salad, ricotta cheese, basil
Pork belly, black pudding, apple
Mains
Lemon and thyme roast chicken, bacon and mushroom sauce
Cheddar and onion tart, pear chutney, cheese sauce
Buttermilk leg of spring lamb. Romesco, salsa verde
Main courses served with creamed potato, seasonal vegetables, roast potatoes
Puddings
Chocolate marquise, hazelnut cream
Rhubarb and custard trifle, chocolate chip cookie
Caramelised lemon and passionfruit tart, meringue, orange
Three courses at £24.95 per person
Chips £3
Coffee x 3 £9
Total for three: £86.85
