LONDON Fashion Week seems to get bigger every year, with more names to know on the schedule and models to keep track of on the catwalks (and Instagram).
But the same stalwart designers have remained the most influential for the last decade, so it's to them we look to find out what's in store for next spring – that's when the designer collections hit department stores and the high street's catwalk-inspired creations are unveiled.
If September's shows are anything to go by, the 90s will remain very much in vogue, stripes will get a squiggly makeover, and the Queen is going to be your number one style icon.
Here's what happened at the 'big five' shows of London Fashion Week.
1. Burberry
The front row: Notably, grime artists Stormzy and Skepta were invited, which hinted at Christopher Bailey's direction this season.
The models: Kaia Gerber, daughter of Cindy Crawford, made her London catwalk debut.
The look: Drawing heavily on the house's archive, the sheepskin jackets, tartan coats and oversized knits were this time imbued with a new streetwear feel. Bailey even went as far as resurrecting the beige Nova Check print that the brand was forced to virtually abandon 10 years ago after it became the calling card of D list celebrities and football fans. It was a risky move, but one we can see the fash pack lapping up.
2. Topshop
The front row: New British Vogue editor Edward Enninful cosied up to Kate Moss and her daughter Lila Grace.
The models: A diverse line-up including Adwoa Aboah, Jourdan Dunn and Joan Smalls.
The look: Creative director Kate Phelan's last collection was a jubilant send-off, a riot of party girls in 90s Soho-inspired bodycon frocks, strappy dresses, metallic skirts and big fluffy coats. There was some gorgeous daywear too - particularly the cable knit jumpers and extra-long, straight-leg suit trousers.
3. Christopher Kane
The front row: Alexa Chung and Selma Hayek, whose husband is CEO of Kane's parent company Kering.
The models: In-demand newcomers Cara Taylor and Kiki Willems walked.
The look: As usual, a seemingly disparate bunch of references – ruffles, handkerchief hems, chintzy prints and sugary pastels – all came from a single source, which this season Kane said was the idea of the domestic goddess. But this homemaker is hiding something, which is why her fluffy cocktail dress is worn with black latex gloves and her shoes come with kitchen mop fringing. The master of stylish subversion triumphed again.
4. Erdem
The front row: Erdem superfan Alexa Chung, actress Jenna Coleman and Brit model Erin O'Connor.
The models: Another designer who favours interesting newcomers, Erdem Moralioglu chose Cara Taylor to close the show.
The look: Imagining a 30-something Queen transported to a New York jazz club (inspired by time spent in the royal archives), Moralioglu sent out a slew of stunningly opulent satin gowns and frock coats. A 50s silhouette ruled throughout - on full skirts or pencil skirts - and there was lots of sequin and crystal embellishment alongside the designer's trademark florals.
5. House of Holland
The front row: Singer Ella Eyre, Little Mix's Leigh-Anne Pinnock and designer Henry Holland's BFF Nicola Roberts of Girls Aloud fame were in attendance.
The models: A refreshingly diverse roster included Sudanese-born Duckie Thot and American Adesuwa Aighewi.
The look: In a word, stripes. Well, waves, really. These psychedelic squiggles, Holland's ode to surf culture, emblazoned everything from slip dresses to midi skirts to sweatshirts. The tinsel pool slides and pirate hats that accompanied almost every look may not be to everyone's taste, but the undulating stripes were a real winner.
