Life

Eating Out: Success of The Gate hinges on its atmosphere

The Gate Bistro in Derry – nothing raucous; just good, happy noise Picture: Margaret McLaughlin
The Gate Bistro in Derry – nothing raucous; just good, happy noise Picture: Margaret McLaughlin The Gate Bistro in Derry – nothing raucous; just good, happy noise Picture: Margaret McLaughlin

The Gate Bistro and Cocktail Bar

34 Ferryquay Street

Derry

Tel: 028 7136 4330

THE next sentence needs to be said out loud, for maximum comic effect. I’m reluctant to say anything bad about the Gate, in case they take offence. Pause for laughter. And now let’s begin.

The fringes of the centre of Derry are pretty lively in the evenings – down Waterloo Street or along Foyle Street – but the centre itself can be a little dead. That’s why it was good to see the Gate Bistro open a couple of months back. On Ferryquay Street, it’s not quite in the heart of the Diamond, but it’s in a handy enough place to keep a defibrillator.

Three of us went there early on a Thursday evening. By the time we left, around nine, it was fairly full – of people, laughter, talk, and music. On Saturdays, apparently, it gets jam-packed.

The menu was a bit of a struggle, in a way. It felt unbalanced – too many mains and too many of them chicken. And, weirdly, for a place that does six different burgers at lunchtime, not a single burger on the evening menu. This is all changing, though, according to the manager, who has watched carefully how things have gone since the opening, and is making shrewd adjustments.

We ordered three starters and put them in the middle of the table: it’s the kind of place where you don’t mind reaching over each other. The ribs were soft and meaty, well-cooked but lacking a bit of sauce. The chicken wings, too, could have done with more sauce, and the dry rub could have had longer to crisp up the skin, but the meat was tender and tasty.

The prawns were the best starter. I would have like more – I always would – but the casings were crisp and nicely seasoned and the prawns themselves were sweet and juicy.

Although the flatbreads were a touch thick and chewy, I really enjoyed my fajitas. The generous strips of steak were soft and flavoursome, the peppers had a good crunch, and the sauce was just the right side of hot. The chicken curry was good, too, although the rice lacked any sense of coconut and was sticky, but not in a good way. While the duck meat was done well, the skin was a touch flabby, although the same could be said for me, too, so perhaps I’m not one to comment.

The side dishes – onion rings apart, which were delicious – were nothing to write home about. We all loved the puddings, though. The brownie was rich, sticky, and very chocolatey, and the cheesecake had nice, citrusy notes, and a good, crunchy base.

If I’ve rushed through the food a bit, there’s a good reason. It’s because the food is only part of the package here at the Gate, and maybe not even the main part, either. The key to this place is in the music coming out of the speakers, the friendly, familiar waiters, the bright, colourful décor, the open, airy space, the gaudy cocktails in glasses the size of a baby’s head.

And on the table next to ours. Here was a group of around a dozen young women. In their late teens and early 20s, in their going-out clothes, maybe on a leaving do or out for a birthday dinner. Drinks on the table, laughter, talk, lots of swapping of places, lots of selfies and smiles. They’d ordered dinner and they’d enjoyed the food, but they were there because this was a good, fun, safe place to get a bit dressed for and come out for a laugh and a natter with your mates.

It was a similar story on the other tables. Small groups, couples, two mates out for a catch-up. Nothing raucous; just good, happy noise. It’s not a pub, it’s not a fancy restaurant, it’s not a trendy coffee shop. It’s just a place with decent grub that’s lovely to be in.

THE BILL

(Prices, for three)

Slow cooked BBQ ribs with pickled slaw £4.50

Sticky glazed chicken wings, hot sauce £3.95

Tempura salt and chilli king prawns, spring onion and fennel slaw, dipping sauce £4.95

Steak fajitas £11.95

Spiced duck breast £14.95

Chicken curry, coconut rice, naan bread £11.95

Sides dishes (included in price) – Parmesan croquettes, chips, onion rings

Cheesecake £3.95

Chocolate brownie £3.95

Ice cream £1.50

Peroni £3.50 x 2

Diet Coke £2 x 3

Total: £74.65