Life

Eating Out: Totally divot-ed to good food at Brown’s on the Green

Brown’s on the Green is one of four Brown's restaurants in the north west
Brown’s on the Green is one of four Brown's restaurants in the north west Brown’s on the Green is one of four Brown's restaurants in the north west

Brown’s on the Green

Letterkenny Golf Club

Barnhill,

Letterkenny

Co Donegal

074 9124771

www.brownsrestaurant.com

ONLY a puerile buffoon would launch a review of a golf club’s restaurant with puns related to the sport. So here goes.

It’s a fair way from Derry to Letterkenny – roughly 20 miles – but the drive is… Look, it would be quicker and ultimately less painful if I just list the punchlines and you fill in the gaps, like ripping off a plaster. Afternoon tee... potato wedges... club sandwich (two for one there)... chips... slices... par for the main course... and, my personal favourite, bread and putter.

Right, that’s out of my system now. Brown’s on the Waterside is one of the best restaurants I’ve ever been to, so the three of us needed no reason other than that to head out for lunch at their outpost at Letterkenny Golf Club. And, while on the Green doesn’t quite come up to HQ’s high standards, it won’t be long before we head back.

The starters were something of a mixed bag. Topped with a good slice of tangy chorizo, the fishcake was a mighty feller. Lovely and crispy on the outside, the potato filling was light and fluffy, although it could have done with more fish. My pork terrine was under-seasoned, I felt; the burned orange puree lacked impact, while the cranberry had too much. The poached pear salad was, however, outstanding. Perfectly cooked, the pear was sweet and spicy, the mozzarella was cool and mild, and there was a beautiful tomato chutney to add extra flavour.

The Christmassy turkey and ham was delicious. The two meats were soft and tender, with their contrasting flavours complemented by a tasty stuffing and a satisfying gravy. The cod was cooked beautifully, the flakes of meaty fish sliding away with ease, and the skin nicely crisp. I loved the taste and texture of the roasted cauliflower and the curried cauliflower was delicate and delightful, although its loveliness was lost a little among other flavours.

The mashed potato was creamy and soft and the roasted carrots were sweet and rich. I thought the parsnips were undercooked, mind, and lacked texture, and the sprouts, while adding a vivid splash of colour, could also have done with a couple of minutes more.

As with the starters, there was one dish that stood head and shoulders above the others, and that was the risotto. The only complaint I have is that I didn’t order it. The rice was perfect, the mushrooms were gorgeously earthy, the chestnuts were deep and sweet, the Parmesan added just the right amount of saltiness, and it was all bound by exactly the right amount of a creamy wine coating. This dish was a scale of notes from low to high.

We were a bit bamboozled by one of the desserts, ordering the sticky toffee and parsnip pudding with more than a hint of trepidation. Luckily, the parsnip came in the form of crisps topping the pud, rather than inside it. They were nice enough, but didn’t really add anything. The pudding was really good, though – a lovely dark sponge and a naughtily sweet sauce.

A couple of things, however: the ice cream wasn’t the quality I would have expected; and the base of the sponge was just too dense and almost impenetrable in places.

The chocolate tart filling was nicely decadent, and happily threatened to stick to the palate, but the absolute star of the show was the Bakewell tart. Oh. My. Word. This was utterly fantastic. The frangipane was warm and fresh, sticky and giving, the flakes of almond gave a good crunch, the jam was sweet, and the pastry base was crisp and light. It was the happiest marriage of flavours and textures, all with a creamy honeycomb ice cream.

While not 100 per cent, some aspects of this meal were simply perfect. This place is a treat, a little gem tucked away in the clubhouse. Fantastic value too.

THE BILL

(For three)

Set lunch menu, three course for €17.95

Starters:

Donegal fishcake, red pepper puree, roasted chorizo

Pork terrine, burned orange puree, cranberries

Salad of red wine poached pear, mozzarella, aged balsamic

Mains:

Turkey and ham, parsnip and honey puree, cranberry sauce

Risotto of wild mushroom and chestnut, aged balsamic

Pan-fried cod, curried cauliflower puree, roasted cauliflower

Sides (included):

Mashed potatoes

Brussels sprouts, carrots, parsnips

Puddings:

Sticky toffee and parsnip pudding, vanilla ice cream, pecans

Chocolate tart

Bakewell tart, honeycomb ice cream

Total: €53.85 (£47.65)