Life

Life is sweet for Olivia Wollenberg – minus refined sugar

Food intolerances forced Olivia Wollenberg to overhaul her diet. But, as she tells Kate Whiting – and as her ever-growing batch of raw and free-from recipes prove – they don't have to mean missing out on the sweet stuff

Olivia Wollenberg; her own health problems set her on a path to rethinking how she cooked and ate
Olivia Wollenberg; her own health problems set her on a path to rethinking how she cooked and ate Olivia Wollenberg; her own health problems set her on a path to rethinking how she cooked and ate

LIFE doesn't get much sweeter than biting into a warm honey cake, fresh from the oven. But in this kitchen, there's no refined sugar – nor gluten or dairy – in sight. This is Livia's – aka Olivia Wollenberg's – kitchen, and she's made her name by baking with more gut-friendly alternatives to the white stuff.

Wollenberg started off baking and selling fresh crumbles from her mum's kitchen in London, and now has a range of Raw Millionaire Bites – her gluten, dairy and refined-sugar-free answer to millionaire's shortbread, filled with gooey date caramel – which are a bestseller in Selfridges' Food Hall.

Her honey loaf cake uses raw honey, coconut palm sugar and ground almonds instead of flour, with coconut oil standing in for butter – ingredients which don't make her feel ill when she fancies a treat.

Her own health problems eventually inspired Wollenberg to revolutionise her approach to eating – and then turn it into a business idea.

"I was always the person at three o'clock who would be like, 'I need some chocolate, I need a cupcake'. I think a lot of people feel that – a working day is really long. Even at school, I was excited for my mum to pick me up because I knew she would come with Nutella sandwiches in the car," confesses the 27-year-old, whose naturally sweet recipes are featured in her debut cookbook, Livia's Kitchen.

"But my stomach got more and more sensitive. I would go out for dinner with my friends on a Saturday night and never be able to join them at a bar afterwards because I was in so much pain. I didn't want to go and see a doctor because I still wanted to go for pizza, and I was so scared they would say to me, 'You can't eat gluten and dairy any more', so I just put up with it."

Things were so bad that her mum told her enough was enough. "She said, 'You're not nourishing your body because what you're eating is just not staying in'," recalls Wollenberg. She saw a nutritionist, who made her keep a food diary for two weeks.

"She looked at the first two pages and said, 'Just what I thought, you're someone who's going to need to follow a FODMAP diet'. And I was like, 'A FODMAP what?'"

FODMAPs are short-chain carbohydrates that can be poorly absorbed in the small intestine, resulting in IBS-like symptoms. For six weeks, she had to cut out a whole list of possible trigger foods, including apples, with the idea she'd then be able to gradually reintroduce them again.

"Most people can reintroduce 90 per cent of foods and have one or two they cut out. I pretty much couldn't reintroduce anything, except apples."

Although she now says the restricted diet "ruined my life", it also set her on a path to swapping academia (she'd been studying neuroscience) for entrepreneurship. She also realised what she'd thought were healthy options, weren't always the best thing.

"I would have frozen yoghurt instead of ice cream, but frozen yoghurt is crazy high in sugar. I would say to people now, go for a full-fat option if you can eat dairy, just because there's less put in it."

Below are some sweet treats from Livia's Kitchen to try yourself.

:: HONEY LOAF CAKE

(Makes 1 loaf)

Softened coconut oil, for greasing the tin

320g jumbo oats, ground to an oatmeal before using (or 290g ground almonds and 30g buckwheat flour)

250g raw honey

110g coconut palm sugar

75g melted raw coconut oil (make sure it is odourless)

Juice and zest of 1 big orange

1tbsp grated fresh ginger

1/2tsp ground nutmeg

2tsps ground cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 180C. Mix all the ingredients in a mixing bowl with a spoon. Line a 20cm x 11cm loaf tin with greaseproof paper. Pour the mixture into the loaf tin. Bake for 35-40 minutes until the top is golden and slightly cracked. The cake will cool as it firms, but there should still be a slightly softer, wetter middle.

:: SUMMER PEACH CRUMBLE

(Serves 8)

For the filling:

800g stoned and chopped peaches (skins on)

100ml maple syrup

1tsp vanilla powder

For the crumble topping:

200g ground oats (grind jumbo oats to an oatmeal before using) or oat flour

200g jumbo oats

5tbsps melted raw coconut oil

100ml maple syrup

1/8tsp salt

1 1/2tsp vanilla powder

Coconut yoghurt, to serve

Preheat the oven to 180C. Cook the peaches in a saucepan over a medium to low heat with the maple syrup and vanilla powder. Cook for about 20 minutes or until soft.

To a mixing bowl, add the ground oats or oat flour, jumbo oats, coconut oil, maple syrup, salt and vanilla powder and mix thoroughly. Once the filling is nice and soft, add to an ovenproof dish and top with the crumble mixture. Bake for 20 minutes until the topping begins to brown. Serve with a dollop of coconut yoghurt.

:: RAW CHOCOLATE & MACA MOLTEN LAVA CAKES

(Makes 6 cakes)

Softened coconut oil, for greasing the dishes cakes

200g blanched almonds

70g rolled oats

325g soft pitted Medjool dates

4 1/2tbsps cacao powder

4tbsps maca powder

3tbsps maple syrup

1/4tsp salt

For the molten sauce:

1 ripe avocado

6tbsps maple syrup

3tbsps cacao powder

3tbsps maca powder

4tbsps almond butter

2tbsps softened raw coconut oil

This cake is raw and requires no baking (although it can be heated in a low oven for 10 minutes if preferred). Grease the muffin tins with coconut oil. Mix all the cake ingredients in a food processor until well mixed and sticky.

Using your hands, use three-quarters of the mix to line each hole in a muffin tin with the mixture, covering the bottom and the sides of the hole only and leaving the top open. Alternatively, use rubber muffin moulds if you have them.

Make the sauce by mixing all the ingredients in a food processor until thick, creamy and well mixed. Spoon two tablespoons of the sauce into each cake case and then cover with the remaining cake mix as a lid, ensuring the edges are stuck together. Turn out the cakes to serve.

:: Livia's Kitchen by Olivia Wollenberg is published by Ebury Press, priced £20.