Life

Brendan Collins's man food for Father's Day

This Father's Day, cook Dad a blokey banquet he won't forget. Claire Spreadbury catches up with chef Brendan Collins and serves up some manly mouthfuls

Brendan Collins, whose new cookery book Cooking, Blokes + Artichokes is out now
Brendan Collins, whose new cookery book Cooking, Blokes + Artichokes is out now Brendan Collins, whose new cookery book Cooking, Blokes + Artichokes is out now

BRENDAN Collins is a "pub-loving meat man" who's a "big softie" at heart, according to his new book Cooking, Blokes + Artichokes.

The Nottingham-born chef worked for Marco Pierre White in London and has since whipped up storms in the fancy kitchens of Los Angeles.

"My views on food are quite simple: it should be fresh, tasty, and no more complicated than it needs to be," says Collins. "That isn't some kind of 'ethos' dreamed up over days spent gazing philosophically at a bunch of radishes. It's the only thing that makes sense to a bloke raised above pubs in the north of England."

Collins's parents worked as pub relief managers, so he found himself moving around, learning a lot about life, and a little about cooking along the way. At 15 he enrolled in culinary school, becoming classically trained before landing his first job at London's two Michelin-starred Le Gavroche.

"I got my degree on a Thursday and by Sunday was on a train to London looking for work. I was 17, and that was the beginning of a restaurant career that's taken me through some of the best and swankiest restaurants in London and Los Angeles," says the father-of-one.

"The country cooking of my boyhood has always remained at the front of my mind, and I've never lost sight of what a good, honest home-made dinner looks like."

Why not follow these recipes from the book to cook your dad some of Brendan's 'man food' this Father's Day?

LAMBURGERS

(Serves 4)

15g unsalted butter

100g sliced white mushrooms

900g minced lamb

Sea salt

4tbsp Caramelised Onion Compote

4 slices Gruyere or other Swiss cheese

4 burger buns

20g rocket leaves

Freshly ground black pepper

Olive oil for drizzling

4tbsp Special Sauce

For the Caramelised Onion Compote:

120ml extra virgin olive oil

900g white onions, thinly sliced

1tbsp brown sugar

1/2 bottle stout or porter beer

2tbsp beef stock

1tbsp balsamic vinegar

Coarse sea salt and freshly cracked pepper

For the Special Sauce:

115g Greek yogurt

1tbsp diced roasted red pepper

1tbsp diced cornichons

1tbsp diced capers

1 1/2tsp fresh lemon juice

1 1/2tsp harissa paste or harissa powder

1tbsp chopped fresh mint

1tbsp chopped fresh coriander

Coarse sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

To make the Caramelised Onion Compote, heat the oil in a large, heavy-based saucepan set over a medium-high heat until it shimmers.

Tip in the onions and brown sugar, stir to coat them with oil and spread them evenly in the pan. Reduce to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally, until you smell the sugars release and the onions become soft and translucent (about 30-45 minutes).

Chuck in all the liquids and cook until they're three quarters reduced, continuing to stir the onions regularly. Season the mixture with pepper and a teaspoon or two of salt, to taste.

Remove the onions from the heat and let them cool completely.

Load the onions into a sterilised jar and close it tightly. The compote will keep in the fridge for around two weeks.

To make the Special Sauce, chuck all the ingredients in a small bowl, mix well; season with salt and pepper.

When you're ready to make the burgers, heat the butter in a cast-iron pan over a medium-high heat until it melts and begins to foam. Add the mushrooms and cook until soft and golden (about four to five minutes). Set aside.

Prepare your grill for medium-high-heat cooking.

Divide your lamb into four 225g portions. Season them generously with salt and roll each into a ball. Wrap the balls tightly in cling film and then flatten them with the heel of your hand into patties about 12.5cm in diameter and 1cm thick; the plastic will help mould and pack the meat. Use your thumb to make a dimple in the centre of the patty (this helps the burger keep its shape as it cooks). Remove the cling film.

Gently place the burgers on the grill over direct heat. Leave them alone for three minutes for medium-rare; add a minute or two for a better-cooked burger. Flip them, and after two minutes, top each with the Caramelised Onion Compote, mushrooms and cheese. Cook the burgers for a further minute, then remove them to a serving plate or baking sheet.

Place the buns on the grill cut-side down for a minute or two to warm them. In a small bowl, dress the rocket with salt, pepper and a bit of oil.

Spread the bottom of each bun with Special Sauce, then transfer the burgers to their buns. Top them with the rocket, close with a bun and serve.

TRIPLE-COOKED CHIPS

(Serves 4)

900g Maris Piper or russet potatoes

Sea salt

Rapeseed oil for frying

Scrub the potatoes under cold water. Using a sharp knife, square off their round edges slightly, then slice them 1.5cm thick. Preheat the oven to 190C.

Chuck the chips in a pan and cover them with cold, seawater-salty water. Bring the water to the simmer over a medium-high heat. It's important to always start potatoes cooking in cold water and heat them gradually, which allows them to release starch and prevents them from becoming gummy. Leave the potatoes to cook all the way through, five or so minutes after the water begins to simmer.

Line two baking sheets with greaseproof paper. Gently remove the potatoes from the hot water to one of the sheets and place them in the oven for two minutes to dry – this will help them crisp in the fryer and develop a really crunchy outside shell.

Transfer the potatoes to an electric deep-fat fryer at 150C in batches and fry them until pale golden, for about two minutes. Remove them from the fryer with a slotted spoon or skimmer to the second parchment-lined baking sheet, and place them back in the oven for a further two minutes. At this point, the chips can be cooled and stored in a sealed container in the fridge for a day or two.

Increase the oil temperature to 190C and return the chips to the fryer once more, again working in batches. This time, cook them until deep golden and very crisp, for two to three minutes. Move them on to kitchen paper and hit them with salt. Serve immediately.

  • Cooking, Blokes + Artichokes by Brendan Collins is published by Kyle Books.