Life

Nathan Outlaw: Fish is where it's at for taste and convenience

Want convenience food that's healthy and tasty? Nathan Outlaw tells Gemma Dunn why it's time to scale back on the ready meals and dip into fish

Nathan Outlaw's aim is to "get people cooking simple, good, sustainable seafood"

NATHAN Outlaw's statement that "seafood is the best convenience food ever" may be bold – but the seasoned chef refuses to eat his words.

"Most seafood will cook within minutes – much faster than any ready meal – and that, for me, is what makes it such a great choice for everyday meal occasions," reasons the 38-year-old.

Documenting his ongoing mission to dispel the myth that fish is tricky to deal with is his latest book, Everyday Seafood, a collection of easy-to-prepare recipes especially for home cooks.

The aim, says Kent-born Outlaw, is to "get people cooking simple, good, sustainable seafood".

Simple and speedy may be the vibe for the recipes, but completing the book was a bit of a lengthy process – which Outlaw admits was mostly down to his own perfectionism and busy schedule.

"I don't have the luxury of disappearing for a few weeks and just writing," he confesses, adding that he opted to cook and plate all the individual dishes himself, in order to ensure they taste exactly as they should.

"My publisher thinks I'm nuts because I don't use home economists and stuff, but I want to make sure it works," he says, chuckling. "And being the third book, I didn't want it to be like that third bad album."

Catering for anything from light bites to leisurely lunches, summer barbecues and family-style entertaining, all bases are covered – and the book is peppered with Outlaw's personal top tips, gleaned from years in the industry.

He credits his first stint at Rick Stein's The Seafood Restaurant in Padstow for his sea-to-plate love affair.

Outlaw, who also enjoys living by the sea in Cornwall with his wife and two children, runs a successful empire of eateries in Cornwall and London, including his two-Michelin-star flagship Restaurant Nathan Outlaw in the fishing village of Port Isaac.

It's the latter where he spends most of his days, "cooking and developing a lot of the recipes".

"The restaurant is paramount," he affirms, refuting the idea that some chefs simply put their name above the door. "I love cooking."

Below are two of Outlaw's recipes to try at home...

:: HOT SMOKED SALMON PATE, WHISKY JELLY

(Serves 6 as a starter)

For the pate:

400g hot smoked salmon, skinned

Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime

100g full-fat cream cheese

150g thick Greek yoghurt

1tbsp creamed horseradish

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the whisky jelly:

200ml Laphroaig whisky

40g caster sugar

2 sheets of bronze leaf gelatine

To serve:

Grated zest of 1 lime

12 slices of rye bread

Salted butter, softened, for spreading

To make the pate, put the hot smoked salmon into a food processor with the lime juice and blitz for 20 seconds. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and add the cream cheese, yoghurt, horseradish, lime zest and some salt and pepper. Blitz for one minute: you want the pate to be almost smooth, with a little texture from the salmon. Divide between six ramekins or other small dishes, cover and refrigerate.

To make the jelly, soak the gelatine in a shallow dish of ice-cold water for about five minutes to soften. Put the whisky and sugar into a pan and heat gently until the sugar has dissolved and the liquor is almost at a simmer then take off the heat. Remove the gelatine leaves from their dish, squeeze out the excess water, and then add to the whisky and stir until dissolved. Leave to cool completely, but don't let it set.

Pour the cooled, liquid jelly evenly on top of the pate and return to the fridge to set.

Take the pate out of the fridge around 20 minutes before serving, so that it comes to room temperature.

When ready to eat, toast the rye bread and spread with butter. Sprinkle the lime zest over the pate and serve immediately, with the buttered toast.

:: MONKFISH SATAY

(Serves 4)

600g monkfish fillet, trimmed of sinew and skin, cut into chunks

2tbsp coriander seeds

2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped

2tbsp finely grated fresh ginger

3 lemongrass stalks, coarse outer layers removed, finely chopped

2tbsp sunflower oil

2tsp soy sauce

2tsp fish sauce

Grated zest of 1 lime (use the juice for the sauce)

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the peanut sauce:

A drizzle of sunflower oil

6 shallots, peeled and finely chopped

4 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped

2 red chillies, deseeded and finely chopped

2tbsp brown sugar

1tbsp fish sauce

200ml coconut milk

160g unsalted peanuts, roasted and finely chopped

Juice of 1 lime

To serve:

1 lime, cut into quarters

For the marinade, toast the coriander seeds in a dry pan over a medium heat for a minute or two, until fragrant. Using a pestle and mortar or spice grinder, grind the seeds to a powder. Add the garlic, ginger and lemongrass and grind again. Add the oil, soy sauce, fish sauce and lime zest and mix well.

Lay the monkfish chunks on a tray and coat all over with the marinade. Cover the tray with cling film and refrigerate for one hour. If you are barbecuing, light your barbecue 30 minutes before you intend to cook.

Meanwhile, make the peanut sauce. Heat a medium pan over a medium heat, then add the oil. When it is hot, add the shallots, garlic and chillies and sweat for three minutes. Stir in the sugar and cook for a further three minutes, then add the fish sauce and coconut milk. Bring to the boil and let it bubble for a couple of minutes. Stir in the peanuts and lime juice, then season with salt and pepper to taste. Keep warm (or allow to cool if preparing ahead and reheat to serve).

When the monkfish is ready, thread four to five chunks on to each of the four skewers. If using a char-griddle, heat up over a high heat. When the char-grill is smoking or the barbecue coals are white hot, carefully lay the monkfish on the griddle and cook for two minutes on each side.

Serve the monkfish on or off the skewers with lime wedges and the peanut sauce in a bowl on the side. Accompany with plain rice and a leafy side salad.

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