PERHAPS more than any other activity, river cruising, not unlike its leisurewear, can stretch to fit all comers. Take for instance the man with the tapestry.
My husband and I had just embarked on our maiden river voyage, a Rhineland cruise from Basle to Amsterdam; and, given our general nosiness and penchant for the quirky and arcane Tapestry Man was first in our sights.
There he sat in the ship’s AmaCerto lounge, his head encased in an illuminated metal headband complete with magnified visor. From a rucksack at his feet there spilled a voluminous bolt of cloth and a profusion of multicoloured thread.
As the other passengers dashed hither and thither exploring their new surroundings Tapestry Man sat stock still surveying the task in hand – an almost blank canvas of Bayeux proportions imprinted with a design of such ferocious complexity as to render its execution impossible. Or so you’d think. Tapestry Man evidently thought otherwise.
With a passenger capacity of just 164, Tapestry Man soon became a familiar, if intriguing presence onboard. Despite the ship’s myriad attractions –heated swimming pool with swim-up bar; hot tub; running track and fitness centre; library; massage, hair and beauty salon; excellent onboard shopping; not to mention the top notch evening entertainment and complimentary shore excursions at every port of call – he never deviated from his routine.
Night, noon and morning you’d find him in his usual spot in the lounge, his face behind the visor a study in concentration as, stitch by painstaking stitch he picked away at his mammoth task. But like all curiosities Tapestry Man soon became part of the furniture as we got into the swing of things on board.
One of 20 ships in AmaWaterways fleet, the Amacerto was launched in 2012 and represents the gold standard in river cruising. Our stateroom – no mere ‘cabins’ on this baby – was the very essence of luxury with a huge, linen and down-dressed bed; twin indoor/outdoor balcony; spacious sitting area; and a bathroom with multi-jet shower heads, spa bath and designer toiletries.
Then there was the computer with high speed internet access and Wi-Fi; and a movie-on-demand system featuring Hollywood’s latest releases and a selection of classic films. Not to mention the music channels, and a variety of English-language news, sport and satellite TV stations – all available on flat screen and completely free of charge.
For the truly sybaritic it would be easy to just spend the week here, channel-hopping and drinking in the ever-changing balcony views. But there were things to do, people to see; onwards then to the Amacerto Lounge.
With its wonderfully welcoming staff, comfy sofas and armchairs, and wraparound views of the surrounding Rhineland, the Amacerto lounge was the nerve centre of activity on board. Ideally suited to people-watching, it was here that any ill-conceived notions of typical cruise ship clientele were quickly debunked.
Far from the cliché of jaded, coffin-dodging Yanks, our fellow passengers were a lively bunch of all ages and nationalities, including a group of Aussies who evidently thought it worth their while to travel half way around the world just to travel a little further in style – and quite right too.
It was here that our cruise manager, the delightfully unflappable Reka Piros kept us updated with upcoming events and excursions as well as pointing out places of interest en route, and providing a potted history of our ever-changing surroundings. Here too that Pavlin, our resident pianist, tinkled the ivories as we munched our way through afternoon tea and late night snacks.
And all the while, Tapestry Man stitched away. As we cruised through a landscape of forest, fairytale castles and ancient cathedral cities he remained singularly focussed on his task. Seldom did he lift his head, much less appear to show interest in his surroundings.
Never once did I see him eat (although that’s not to suggest he didn’t; with a choice of dining venues including the spacious main restaurant and intimate Chef’s Table you could eat as publicly or privately as you chose). Nor did we ever encounter him on what was, certainly for us, the cruise highlight: its ports of call.
Stretching to some 820 miles, the Rhine is Europe’s most important waterway and cuts a swathe through six countries – Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Austria, Germany, France and the Netherlands – from its source in the Swiss Alps to the North Sea. No other river in the world has a greater concentration of castles and castle ruins. In one short stretch between Koblenz and Bingen in the Rhine Gorge I counted at least 30 to rival the best that Disney could offer.
Our Rhine time coincided serendipitously with the Christmas market season. In cities, towns and villages en route we found the most amazing array of outdoor stalls piled high with seasonal goodies; perhaps none more remarkable than Cologne’s Christmas market.
Located in the shadow of its world famous Gothic cathedral – a Unesco World Heritage site rendered even more magical by the surrounding fairy lights and Christmas trees– the markets here are a huge event, attracting over two million visitors annually.
Little wonder – if you could peddle the atmosphere, thick with the scent of pine, spiced glugwein and seasonal good cheer, you’d make a fortune. After stocking up on lovely, handcrafted Christmas baubles it was back on board the Amacerto to be greeted, as ever, by hot towels and complimentary drinks – home was never like this.
But such times pass swiftly by. As we neared our final port of called I slipped into the lounge for a last look around. And there he was, Tapestry Man, for once minus the headgear, preparing to take his leave. As he gathered up his handiwork our eyes met and he gave a rueful little smile.
“All good things...” he murmured. I shot him a quizzical look. “So you enjoyed it?” “Oh my goodness, yes,” came the fervent reply. “I’ve had the most wonderful time.”
As indeed did we.
So there you have it: different strokes for different folks and satisfaction for all – river cruising at its best.
FACT FILE
:: AmaWaterways’ seven-night 'Enchanting Rhine’ sailing between Basel and Amsterdam can be booked from £2079pp, to include all meals, complimentary wine, beer and soft drinks with lunch and dinner, free wi-fi, free use of on board bicycles and daily tours and excursions.
:: The price is based on a departure on July 11 2016 and includes flights from Dublin (via Frankfurt), and transfers. For more information or to book an AmaWaterways river cruise, contact travel agents, visit AmaWaterways.co.uk or call 0808 256 8422
