Pier 59
Strand Road
Derry BT48 8PH
028 7127 1759
ALIENS had landed in Derry. Aliens or, as some call them, young people. Ebrington Square was hosting the eagerly anticipated (apparently) Club MTV concert. On either side of the river, girls in impossibly short shorts and boys in completely unnecessary sunglasses – unless they were visually impaired, in which case, I apologise for my insensitivity – were drinking as much as possible before entering the arena.
Beyond the crowd-control barriers, the rules were strict: no umbrellas, for example; only bottles of water with unbroken seals (we take care of our semi-aquatic marine mammals here in the walrussed city); and, to my ears, no music.
I am at least seven stone, 30 years, and a full head of hair too late for such shenanigans. My hot pants-wearing, bits-of-buttock-baring days are far behind me. Along with a couple of trusty companions, I was off to Pier 59, Derry’s speciality fish restaurant, on the Strand Road. I reckon there were a few unbroken seals who would have been happy enough to join us.
Health benefits and taste aside, the best thing about eating a lot of fish is the chance for puns that it affords. Plaice has almost limitless possibilities, some of them nearly funny, and cod has potential, too. A warning on the menu that service may be slower during busy periods gave my brother the perfect opportunity to say it was a case of more hake, less speed. When my wife threatened to move to a table by herself, we decided to concentrate on the food.
My brother started with the salt and chilli squid, which was full of kick and flavour and, irresistibly, cost six quid! My wife and I both had the scallops. I was a bit disappointed in them, to be honest. They were a touch bland and, like another old joke, there weren’t enough of them. The pea and mint risotto they came with, however, was absolutely delicious – creamy and deep, but with a lovely lightness, too. And the Serrano ham was perfect.
The mains were terrific. The monkfish was big and meaty, although we weren’t quite sure about the accompanying raspberry dressing, as it gave a sharpness that maybe didn’t go.
Everything about the chicken was great, though: beautifully cooked, packed with flavour, and delicately enhanced by subtle Moroccan touches. And I couldn’t fault my sea bream. The skin was crisp and textured and the fish was cooked with real skill and appreciation, so the sea-freshness of the meat could just speak for itself.
I really enjoyed the nage it came with, too. What do you mean, you don’t know what a nage is? It’s a broth flavoured with white wine, vegetables, and herbs, and then reduced and thickened with cream and/or butter. I thought everybody knew that.
Oh, by the way, knockout chips and mash, too, and properly cooked sugar snap peas and carrots!
The desserts were just as good as the mains. My brother had the apple crumble, but it wasn’t just any crumble. This was a financier, which, evidently, means you chuck some almond in the mix. Mention of finances and crumbling unsettled me, so I just had a big bowl of lovely ice cream, while my wife went for the pannacotta. That was really good – the right consistency, and a zippy mix of fresh, fruity flavours.
We had a lovely time. OK, the service was a touch haphazard – the desserts came in stages and a problem with the card machine meant our waitress took my card away, holding it aloft at all times to show she hadn’t taken it internet shopping – but this is a charming, friendly restaurant which is rightly becoming a Derry favourite.
THE BILL
Starters
Pan-fried scallops, pea and mint risotto, crispy Serrano ham – £8 x 2
Salt and chilli squid, fennel slaw, aioli – £6.00
Mains
Greencastle peppered monkfish, smoked shallot puree, baby carrot, brown butter and raspberry dressing – £17.95
Pan-fried sea bream, White Oaks Summer vegetable nage, crispy Fermanagh bacon – £15.95
Corn-fed chicken supreme, apricot and almond cous-cous, tomato and cardamom reduction – £14.95
Puddings
Pannacotta with lime leaf and cardamom, mango and coconut puree, cinnamon – £5.50
Apple crumble financier, apple puree, chocolate ice cream – £5.50
Selection of Irvinestown Tickety Moo ice cream – £4.50
Drinks
Diet Coke – £1.90
Spaten Beer – £3.80
Bottle of Stoneburn Sauvignon Blanc – £23.99
Total: £116.04
