Life

Getting out and about in scenic Oban and Argyll

A lovely refurbished historic coaching inn near Oban is a perfect base to explore the stunning west coast of Scotland, writes Brian Campbell

The view across the bay towards McCaig's Tower at dusk in Oban, Argyll. Picture: Paul Tomkins/VisitScotland
The view across the bay towards McCaig's Tower at dusk in Oban, Argyll. Picture: Paul Tomkins/VisitScotland The view across the bay towards McCaig's Tower at dusk in Oban, Argyll. Picture: Paul Tomkins/VisitScotland

IT'S common for hotels to be named after a place, but on our trip to Argyll on the west coast of Scotland we were impressed to learn that our hotel gave the village of Taynuilt its name.

Taynuilt translates as `house by the burn/stream' and while the quaint but lovely building has been a staging post for centuries, the Taynuilt Hotel has been re-launched as a charming 10-room boutique hotel and has rightly been attracting praise for its top-notch accommodation and inventive food and drink offerings.

Taynuilt is a perfect base for exploring Oban, Argyll and isles including Lismore, Colonsay, Islay, Coll, Tiree, Mull and Barra.

We headed to Scotland on the super-convenient P&O Larne to Troon Express. We decided to stop off on our drive north at Inveraray Castle on the shores of Loch Fyne – with a journey time of just under two hours from Troon. Not only is it a stunning place, but it's also the home of the Clan Campbell – so myself, Mrs Campbell and baby Campbell felt right at home.

The clan history – dating back to 1260 – is displayed in great detail alongside a dazzling array of portraits, tapestries, costumes, drums and arms in the many rooms, among them the state dining room, tapestry room and Armoury Hall.

The latter room – with its muskets, pole-arms, swords and axes – features the highest ceiling in Scotland, emblazoned with a selection of Campbell crests. One of the most popular items on display is the belt, sporran and dirk (knife) handle of Rob Roy MacGregor.

When you take a tour it does appear to be a museum but it is in fact the family home of the Duke and Duchess of Argyll – aka Torquhil and Eleanor Campbell. A castle has been on the grounds since the 1400s but the current Baroque, Palladian and Gothic style structure was built in the late 1700s. The gardens and grounds are an attraction all of their own, while there's also an excellent cafe and gift shop (in which we bought several `Clan Campbell' bits and bobs).

The castle, which has featured in Downton Abbey, is open to the public from April until October 31. The Best of the West festival takes place at the castle on September 12 and 13, with Peatbog Faeries among the bands performing. It's a place you won't forget, which is fitting considering that the Campbell motto is Ne Obliviscaris (do not forget).

Taynuilt is another 40 minutes north and west of Inveraray and the white facade of the Taynuilt Hotel is easy to spot as you enter the village. The rooms are all named after Scottish lochs and we stayed in the lovely Loch Etive suite, which even has its own outdoor terrace.

The blue-themed room has a definite maritime vibe to it and the antique bed is a thing of beauty and, more importantly, very comfortable. The hotel is owned by chef John McNulty, while general manager David Lapsley – a man armed with expert knowledge on wine and whisky - was extremely helpful during our stay.

As well as hearty Scottish breakfasts in the bright and airy breakfast room, we had some fantastic food in the restaurant – with the garlic mushrooms, steak, potted trout and seafood pie just four memorable dishes. The bar stocks more than 80 whiskies, while one of the nicest craft beers they have – from the Loch Ness Brewery – is HoppyNess.

The hotel is becoming a word of mouth success story and it has just been awarded three AA stars for its accommodation and an AA Rosette award for the restaurant.

Taynuilt is close to the historic Bonawe Iron Furnace, Loch Etive, Loch Awe and the imposing Ben Cruachan - the highest mountain in Argyll.

One place definitely worth checking out is Cruachan – aka `the hollow mountain' - hydro power station.

At the visitor centre, you get tickets to take a bus tour deep inside the mountain to a viewing gallery overlooking the turbines at the heart of the operation. The tour has been fittingly described as “like stepping into a James Bond film set”.

The power station was opened 50 years ago and this astonishing feat of hydro engineering was the brainchild of Scot Edward McColl. Electricity is generated using water from a dam further up the mountain. When there is a surplus of electricity, water is pumped up to the reservoir and then when demand is at its peak Cruachan roars into life as water plummets down the mountain to fuel the turbines.

A picturesque town to take time to visit is Oban, which is 10 miles from Taynuilt. It's a lovely spot that would remind you of some coastal towns in the west of Ireland.

Perhaps the most striking sight is McCaig's Tower - like a mini-Colosseum - perched on the cliff that overlooks the town and a place that offers some stunning views.

Across the Firth of Lorn from Oban is the Isle of Mull and you can take ferries over to Lismore, Colonsay, Islay, Coll, Tiree, Mull, and Barra. Unsurprisingly, Oban has a long list of seafood dining options – from cheap and cheerful fish and chips to fine dining establishments.

For anyone with a sweet tooth, we can heartily recommend the Oban Chocolate Company, a chocolatier and cafe that offers unbelievably good chocolates. Three options to get you started are the toffee crisp, Belgian vanilla and whisky truffle.

There's a more intensive and informative whisky experience to be had at the Oban Distillery - handily located in the centre of the town - one of Scotland's oldest sources of single malt scotch. Their 14-year-old single malt is worth the admission on its own.

As we drove out of Oban to see where we could take in next, we noticed that Campbeltown was 80 miles south.

We didn't bother. As my wife said, `It's too far and it isn't even spelled right'.

But we’ll definitely return to Oban, Taynuilt and Inveraray.

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FACT FILE

:: Rooms at the Taynuilt Hotel (10 miles outside Oban) start at around £65. To book, call 01866 822 437, visit TaynuiltHotel.co.uk or email enquiries@taynuilthotel.co.uk

:: Inveraray Castle is open until October 31 (Inveraray-Castle.com). The Best of the West festival (Bowfest.co.uk) takes place at the castle on September 12 & 13

:: Oban Chocolate Company: ObanChocolate.co.uk

:: Cruachan Hollow Mountain: VisitCruachan.co.uk

:: Oban Distillery: http://www.discovering-distilleries.com/oban/

:: For more information, go to VisitScotland.com/argyll-isles

:: P&O Ferries operates frequent crossings between Northern Ireland and Scotland. You can sail from Larne to Cairnryan (up to seven sailings a day) or from Larne to Troon. The Express between Larne and Troon runs until September 30, with one return sailing each day in September. On board you can avail of the food court, shopping and children’s entertainment. Fares start from £74 each way from Larne to Cairnryan for a car and driver, with the Troon Express fare starting at £99. Upgrading to the Club Lounge - offering complimentary newspapers, magazines and refreshments - costs £12 in advance. For more information and to book tickets, visit POFerries.com