The Cook and Gardener,
Rathmullan House,
Rathmullan,
Co Donegal
00353 749 158 188
rathmullanhouse.com
WHENEVER I tell people I work from home, they always give me that look. That look that says, "Yeah right. Dosser". At least I think it’s 'dosser'. I don’t always hear looks properly.
But it isn’t easy. Do you know how many repeats of Frasier Channel 4 shows every day? Or that barely has Homes under The Hammer finished before Bargain Hunt begins? Or that, at any given moment, some channel is showing an episode of Big Bang Theory that I might only have seen twice before? No, you people just don’t think, do you?
And I haven’t even mentioned the effort that goes into thinking of plausible reasons for why I’m still in my pyjamas at 6pm, or the physical strain involved in moving the furniture slightly to make it look like I’ve hoovered. There just aren’t the hours in the day.
Working from home is tough. So every now and then I deserve a break. OK, so I never deserve a break. But my wife does. Not only does she work really hard, but she has to live with me. Yes, that is her fault for not reading the small print carefully enough, but still.
And so, it came to pass that last week I treated us to a night away at Rathmullan House in Co Donegal. It might have been nice if I’d extended the treat to paying for it rather than just booking it, but you can’t have everything.
Rathmullan House pretty much has everything, mind. A beautiful old country hotel on the fringes of the village, it sits in mature grounds and looks across the glistening waters of the Swilly to Inishowen.
If you go there, it’s worth arriving early. They have restored the walled garden, where they now grow many of the fruit and vegetables used in the restaurant, and it’s a delight to walk round it. I did, and I also looked at the hotel swimming pool and considered having a game of croquet, so by dinner time, I’d really built up an appetite.
I had the scallops to start with. Accompanied by crispy pancetta and textures of cauliflower (both seriously underrated prog rock bands), these were perfectly cooked and utterly delicious. My wife had the goats’ cheese, packed inside crispy parcels, complemented by sweet walnuts and sharp plums.
My wife, fussy about all things except her choice of husband, felt her steak was just a touch chewy, but raved about the shallot puree and wild mushrooms, the taste of which was deep and rich.
I have nothing but praise for my monkfish. It was thick and meaty and satisfying, while the chard was strong and the fresh taste of the courgette was enhanced by a smoky quality from the chargrill.
The best thing about the meal was the pudding, a plum and almond tart with brown bread ice cream. (It was also the worst thing, because we shared it. It’s not romantic. In future, get your own pudding.) They should award medals for things like this.
The pastry was light and crisp and delicate. The plums sat inside a subtle frangipane, and were cooked just enough to release some of their juices, but still retain shape and texture. And the brown bread ice cream: wow. It was creamy and sweet, with a real depth of flavour from the brown breadcrumbs within it: a nuttiness, and almost, but not quite, a savouriness. A lovely, old-fashioned, grown-up ice cream treat.
I think Rathmullan House is rather special. Everything about it seems deeply rooted in the place, in its geography and history, and in its present and future, too. They’re proud of their associations with new neighbouring businesses, such as Scarpello Breads and Kinnegar Ales, and they draw on the traditions of the house in a constant search for new quality.
Whether I deserve it or not – and I won’t – I’m going again!
The Bill
Starters:
Crispy Ardsallagh goats’ cheese, aged Balsamic, glazed plums, candied walnut – €11.50
Pan-seared Donegal scallops, curry cauliflower puree, textures of cauliflower, crispy pancetta – €15
Mains:
Pan-seared Greencastle monkfish, Lyonnaise potato, garden chard, chargrilled courgette, red wine fumet – €25
Fillet steak, shallot puree, horseradish mash, sautéed wild mushrooms – €30
Side order of sour cabbage and bacon – €3.50
Pudding:
Plum and almond tart, plum compote, almond tuile, brown bread ice cream – €8
Drinks:
Bottle of Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc – €39
Total: €132 (£93.70)
