Life

Sperrins are a hidden gem in our own back yard

You can keep your Cote d'Azur, lake Como and Connemara – the Sperrins is the place for me, writes Billy Foley, who has just discovered one of the north's best kept secrets

The stable yard at Barronscourt Estate. The Clock Tower accommodation is on the left, with the entrance under the arch
The stable yard at Barronscourt Estate. The Clock Tower accommodation is on the left, with the entrance under the arch The stable yard at Barronscourt Estate. The Clock Tower accommodation is on the left, with the entrance under the arch

THERE’S nothing like finding a gem in your own backyard that you didn’t know existed.

That’s what happened when we arrived at magnificent Baronscourt, deep in rural west Tyrone.

Let’s be fair here – Tyrone is not the first destination that comes to mind when you think about a get-away-from-it-all weekend break. I’d probably have Nice, Lake Como and Connemara on my list in that order, but don’t dismiss what’s on offer nearer to home. And that doesn’t just mean the west coast. There’s more to having a break in Ireland than Donegal, Mayo, Connemara and west Cork.

We were invited by Tyrone/Sperrins Tourism to see what was on offer in the swathe of hills across the middle of Northern Ireland. Here’s what we did for a couple of actions packed days.

:: Baronscourt Estate

WE STAYED in the Clock Tower, one of two apartments at Baronscourt available to rent.

There are dozens of stately homes which have been converted into hotels, spas and guesthouse – particularly in Meath, Kildare and around the border – but I can’t think of any that remain in the hands of the original aristocracy.

Baronscourt has been the family home of the Duke of Abercorn since 1612 and boy does it retain that sense of grandeur. You just know that the place isn’t run by a chain of international hotel operators – not that there’s anything wrong with the Radissons of this world, who produce quality establishments – it’s just that there’s a different feel to this.

The accommodation at Baronscourt is in the form of two apartments in an imposing stable yard, dating from 1819. One side of the courtyard appears to continue as a working stable, although there were no horses housed there during our visit.

The Clock Tower, with an entrance under the arch, is a delightful duplex with a spacious kitchen and dining area on the ground floor and a comfortable living room on the first floor. Two double bedrooms are located at either side of the living room, both with dedicated bathrooms.

I’ve always like the idea of a first-floor living area and there is something incredibly relaxing about enjoying a glass of wine while gazing from a height through large windows out onto a rolling estate. If you weren’t careful it could give you notions of grandeur.

We had plenty of activities lined up for us, but I could have done a week in Baronscourt alone.

:: Ulster American Folk Park

I’VE lived in Belfast for 15 years but I had previously never visited the Ulster American Folk Park, which tells the story of Irish emigration to America in the 18th and 19th centuries.

It’s an open-air museum which took us about two-hours to cover and begins with the houses, farms and places of worship of Ulster people before they left for America. The middle section linking the old world to the new is a replica ship of the type emigrants would have sailed on to America.

The Brig Union is a full-size replica of an immigrant sailing ship and a big hit with children. After surviving the crossing you emerge into the new world, with new shops and house types of the north-eastern states of what would become the United States.

It’s a wonderful couple of hours, helped in no small measure by the people in period costume along the way giving demonstrations and explaining the ways, customs and reasons for people leaving Ireland.

We enjoyed it, but I can only imagine the emotions it must invoke for the Irish-American descendants of these emigrants who can picture their ancestors risking their lives crossing the Atlantic to find something better in the new world.

:: Barrontop Farm

BARRONTOP Farm sits in a beautiful valley at Donemana in the Sperrins, not far from Strabane. Run by a delightful young couple, Trevor and Karen, it produces that classic occasion when children meet, hold and pet farm yard animals.

It’s hands on action with horses, Irish deer, lambs, guinea pigs, rabbits, geese and ducklings in a covered shed and then it’s a scenic walk around the farm to visit the goats, lamas, pigs, donkeys and duck pond.

And just in case the rain gets you, there’s an indoor bouncy castle, play area and tea rooms. What more could you want for a family afternoon?

:: Oysters restaurant

FOR dinner we went to Oysters restaurant in Strabane, where Kevin and Caroline Clarke are producing quality food. The restaurant was busy with two sittings, leaving the dinning room buzzing.

It often happens that good restaurants on Saturday nights aren’t particularly child friendly but there were plenty of other children eating and our two were welcomed with pages and crayons and loads of choice on the kids' menu. Their food arrived along with our starters, so everyone was happy.

I chose crispy mushrooms followed by slow-braised shoulder and seared cutlet of Irish spring lamb with spring greens, roast shallot and lamb jus. My wife decided on a goat’s cheese starter with pickled beetroot, candied walnuts and roast red onion salad followed by a root vegetable tartlet with burnt onion purée and Cashel Blue cheese. The presentation of every dish was immaculate and the quality and taste superb.

For dessert we sampled three of their delicious options, including passion fruit crème brûllée, panna cotta and tiramisu. Each one was delightful and by the time our cheeseboard with homemade biscuits and house chutneys arrived, the staff were good enough to pack it up to go.

Oysters is a must for you itinerary, particularly if you are a fish fan, with Kevin travelling regularly to Burtonport in Co Donegal to get the best and freshest the Atlantic has to offer.

:: Jungle NI

ANOTHER first for me, Jungle NI is an activity centre in the south Derry Sperrins. The fun started immediately for the children with a tunnel under the busy road between Moneymore and Desertmartin (originally built for cattle) connecting the car park to the activity centre.

There’s lots going on at Jungle NI – archery, glamping, paint balling, zorbing – but it’s the tree top walks that are worth travelling for. In a beautiful steep valley in the hills behind the centre, walkways have been built into the tree line.

Wearing a harness and clipped into an overhead safety wire, there is no way to fall, but it’s still hard to convince your brain that walking along an obstacle course high above the forest floor is sensible behaviour.

I accompanied seven-year-old Freddie as he navigated his way through wibbly, wobbly bridges, cargo nets and a tree house, all 30-feet above the ground. For the adrenaline junkies, the adult version is up to 70-feet in the skies.

FACTFILE:

Baronscourt Estate, Newtownstewart, Co Tyrone

028-81661683

barons-court.com

The Clock Tower, a two bedroom apartment, is £360 for a three-night weekend.

Ulster American Folk Park, Mellon Road, Castletown, Omagh

028-82243292

nmni.com/uafp

A family of two adults and up to three children is £25 (with under 4s free)

Barrontop Farm, Barron Road, Donemana, Tyrone

028-71397776

barrontop.co.uk

Adults and children £4.50, family of six £22.50

Oysters Restaurant, Patrick Street, Strabane

028-71382690

oystersrestaurant.co.uk

Jungle NI, Desertmartin Road, Moneymore, Co Derry

028-87648881

thejungleni.com

Mowgli (Children) Tree Top Adventure Course – £13 each