Life

Travel: Northumberland a trip back in time

Margaret Carragher and her hubby took the 'Mid-Life Crisis' on the ferry across the water for a road trip in England's northern-most county that took them back into the mists of time

Hexham Abbey
Hexham Abbey Hexham Abbey

NORTHUMBERLAND – where the best holidays end up in ruins. With more ancient castles, abandoned priories and derelict forts, fortresses and follies than anywhere else in England, if it’s ruins you’re after this is the place to go. But spread as it is over 5,013 km² (that’s more than twice the size of county Down) a game plan is essential; that and a set of wheels.

And so to Northumberland, hubby and I, in the Mid-life Crisis. Bought to commemorate the end of the school run, this gloriously impractical, ramshackle convertible has since covered much of mainland Europe; this would be its first venture across the pond.

Our crossing from Belfast to Cairnryan on the Stena Superfast VII took just over two hours. Another four hours of cross-country cruising brought us to the town of Rothbury. And what a delight. Chosen purely for its proximity to Hadrian’s Wall, it soon became clear that this could well be a holiday destination in itself.

With a history stretching back over a millennium, Rothbury is characterised by the sort of wonderfully quaint architecture seldom seen outside of Inspector Morse re-runs; and none more wonderful than the 200-year-old Queen’s Head Hotel. With just seven ensuite bedrooms, staying here is like living over the pub: not just any old pub but a gleaming brass and wood-panelled gem with a roaring fire, craft beers and pub grub to die for.

As it happened our visit coincided with a Rothbury Roots evening. Established in 2001 when the proprietors invited a group of local musicians to stage a series of live sessions in the Queen’s Head bar, Rothbury Roots is now one of Northumberland’s most celebrated music events featuring folk, blues, country, jazz and contemporary singer-songwriters.

Next morning, after a delicious breakfast – the chef actually makes his own sausages – it was off to Hadrian’s Wall. Built almost two thousand years ago to mark the northern border of the Roman Empire, the sheer visual impact of this massive stretch of masonry still packs a punch.

Named after the emperor who ordered its construction, Hadrian’s Wall originally featured sixteen forts along its 73 mile route, each built to accommodate 800 soldiers, and each with its own prison, hospital, bakery and stables. While some are in ruins many remain intact, most notably Housesteads, the most complete Roman fort in Britain.

As a World Heritage Site, and the most popular tourist attraction in Northern England, we were expecting the place to be thronged; but apart from the occasional sheep it was pretty much deserted – like having the Parthenon or the Coliseum to yourself.

Walking in the footsteps of generations of Roman soldiers in a vast and empty landscape is a profoundly moving experience – you can almost sense their presence resonating down the centuries.

Onwards then to Hexham. Another charming little market town of cut stone and cobbled streets, Hexham’s historic gems include its eponymous gaol. As the country’s oldest purpose-built prison, Hexham’s Old Gaol was constructed in the early 14th century and served as a prison for almost 500 years.

Now a state-of-the-art museum, it offers an insight into crime and punishment in medieval times with interactive displays on archaeology, period costumes, armour and textiles. Meanwhile, just down the street, Hexham Abbey was packing them in. Originally a Benedictine Abbey, then an Augustinian Priory and the Parish Church of Hexham, its roots stretch back to AD 674 when it was built from materials salvaged from nearby Roman ruins – truly a case of history built upon history.

Now one of the most popular free attractions in the North East, Hexham Abbey has a new visitor centre with an interactive exhibition, cafe and shop.

After such antiquity, the colossal, mock Tudor Victorian mansion of Cragside seemed almost futuristic. Located just outside Rothbury, it was the first house ever to be lit by hydroelectric power, and features the earliest prototypes of dishwashers, vacuum cleaners and washing machines.

The brainchild of one William George Armstrong, inventor, philanthropist and all round good guy, Cragside’s magnificent tiered grounds include one of the largest rock gardens in Europe. Now in the care of the National Trust, Cragside is open to the public; tearing yourself away from it is another matter. But another, perhaps even more spectacular edifice beckoned.

Rising majestically from a rocky outcrop on Northumberland’s rugged coastline, Banburgh Castle dominates the landscape as far as the eye can see. Once home to the kings of ancient Northumbria, it gradually fell into disrepair until 1900 when it was saved from ruin by the aforementioned WG Armstrong – who duly and deservedly got a title for his trouble. Now home to the good lord’s descendants, the castle’s public rooms feature more than 2,000 artefacts including arms and armour, porcelain, furniture and paintings.

With the Holy Island of Lindisfarne still on the agenda, we moved base to the Lindisfarne Inn. Chosen purely for its proximity to the island (which can only be accessed twice daily at low tide) the ‘Lindy’ proved to be yet another gem, with spacious accommodation, welcoming staff and an excellent range of food served all day, every day until 9pm.

Many are the tales of tardy tourists stranded on Holy Island by the tides; bring it on, I say.

Spread over just 1,000 acres and with more ecclesiastical ruins per square inch than anywhere else on earth, Holy Island is essentially a testament in stone to the power and resilience of the human spirit. Established as a place of worship in AD 634, Lindisfarne has over the centuries withstood the ravages of fire and famine, plunder and pillage to become a haven of solace for all religions and none. If a more wonderfully restful place exists, I’ve yet to find it.

So many ruins, so little time. Homeward bound, we ruefully contemplated our wish list of sights as yet unseen: the Lavender Tearooms in Etal; Chillingham Castle; the 12th Century Brinkburn Priory. Not to mention the many random ruins lining our route. No matter — have Crisis will travel. We’ll be back.

FACTFILE

:: The Stena Superfast VII has 12 sailings daily on its Belfast to Cairnryan route. Onboard facilities include free Wi-Fi, free movies, the Pure Nordic Spa, the POD Lounge, The Living Room and Taste restaurant plus the exclusive Stena Plus Lounge. stenaline.ie

:: Established in 1792 the Queen’s Head Hotel is an award-winning 4 Star Inn in the heart of Rothbury famed for its craft beers, traditional music and excellent cuisine

www.queensheadrothbury.com

:: The Lindisfarne Inn on Northumberland’s coast is ideally positioned convenient to Bamburgh Castle and Lindisfarne. Excellent food from award-winning chef Robert Ferrier is available all day, every day. lindisfarneinn.co.uk

::For more information about Northumberland see visitnorthumberland.com